Entire books have been written about the best way to tour Disneyland, but after a recent visit there, I think I’ve cracked the code: just relax. That may seem counter-intuitive, but I think I’m onto something.

The California theme park is smaller and more compact than Disney World, so if you’re used to Florida’s cult of The Mouse, this one will be a breeze. Going into it with a more Zen-like attitude (and a few key strategies), will allow you to enjoy your visit, while still seeing what you came to see. Disneyland is in Anaheim, outside L.A., as anyone growing up in the ’50s watching The Mickey Mouse Club would know. And it was every child of that era’s dream to see The Happiest Place on Earth with their own two eyes. So imagine the excitement of this Annette Funicello groupie when she finally made it there, grandkids in tow.

travel-disney_+IMG_7727Here at Disneyland there are only two theme parks: the original Disneyland dating to 1955 and California Adventure Park. Both are in walking distance of the Disneyland Hotel complex, three 10-story testaments to the magnetism of Disney. The hotels are supremely comfortable, though, with everything you need to enjoy your magical stay. They are a short walk to both parks, the equivalent of seven or eight blocks, and trust me, proximity is everything when you’re spending $300 a day per couple to ride, watch and walk yourself into a Disney stupor. After 10 hours of that, even a few blocks’ walk back can feel like climbing Mt. Everest.

We spent a day at Disneyland proper, which had the usual assortment of older Disney rides and attractions—Dumbo, Sleeping Beauty, Pinocchio, Winnie the Pooh—but if you’ve been to Disney World (three times), I’d recommend devoting the rest of your stay to California Adventure right next door. It’s got the latest heroes and animation—all the stuff today’s tikes relate to: Cars, Toy Story, It’s a Bug’s Life and princesses I’ve never even heard of.

California Adventure is set up as a tribute to California and its history—the place where Walt Disney made his fortune. The entrance is announced in Old Hollywood lettering, marquee-style, and you enter onto a recreation of old L.A.’s Buena Vista Street. Nearby are symbolic orange groves, wine vineyards and mountains, a salute to the majesty of America’s 31st state.

Among the best (and most-crowded) attractions is Soarin’ Over California, an aerial tour, Omnimax-style, of famous California sites like Yosemite Park, San Francisco, Napa Valley, Lake Tahoe, Malibu and more. This is one of the rides you should get a FastPass for. These handy short cuts, which have specific times assigned to you for that ride, allow you to be fast-tracked at rides of your choosing. So, what is the best strategy for maximizing, and enjoying, your Disneyland time? Get to the parks early and try to do the most in-demand rides first. Even ordering your FastPass early in the day (at automated stations throughout) can make a huge difference. We got one at 8:30 a.m. for the uber-popular Radiator Springs Racers, and the time assigned to us was 9:30 a.m.. When we went back at 10:30 a.m. for another one (this is a really cool ride!), the time given us was 3:30 p.m.—bummer.

The most expensive attraction Disney has ever created, this fun racing ride has two cars traveling side-by-side on parallel tracks. The cars are named after popular Cars characters, like Lightening McQueen and Sally Carrera, and they race each other up and down mountains, inside and out of tunnels. Warning to unsuspecting grandmas: it’s a roller coaster disguised as a benign kiddie ride.

Another don’t-miss is the live Disney performance at Hyperion Theater in Hollywood Land, near the park’s entrance. Playing when we were there was Aladdin, with a genie who channels Robin Williams in an hour-long show of favorite songs and scenes, including a magic carpet ride in which Jasmine and Aladdin are suspended high above the audience at balcony level—very convenient if you happen to be sitting up there.

Which brings up a real Disney strength, in general. You may be paying premium prices to be at the happiest place on earth, but once you’re there, it does everything possible to make sure you and your little guests have the time of your lives. Disney characters appear all over the parks, and they engage the kids with photo ops, autographs and plenty of hugs.

In addition to the thrill of costumed characters at every turn, there are spontaneous street shows by everyone from Phineas & Ferb to Snow White. We even saw a group of ’30s newsboys, accompanied by Mickey himself, hop off The Red Car Trolley, singing and dancing about the importance of believing in yourself—and we all know that Mickey and Minnie sightings are the best!

That is not to imply that the Princesses have lost an ounce of éclat over all these decades—nor does it look like they ever will. A princess sighting is an instant girl gathering—and you will never again see this much taffeta, satin, netting, chiffon and glitter all in one place. That’s because many little girls come to the park decked out as their favorite princess—and I have it on good authority that a credible outfit from head to toe can cost upward of $120.

That is not really a surprise when you consider the cost of premium extras here like Lunch with the Princesses at Ariel’s Grotto (insert glass-shattering screams here). But this special event was all it was promised to be. First we descended a spiral staircase into a sea-inspired dining room kingdom opening to, what else? the sea (in this case, Paradise Pond). A royal page introduces their most takes place. For 30 minutes at night, spumes of water shoot 200 feet into the air, creating the world’s largest ‘water screen’ onto which favorite Disney characters and scenes are projected.

This is a jam-packed event, and die-hards will stand around the pond for an hour to claim their prime locations. For the less committed (or maybe just the more well-heeled), you can get dinner reservations at one of the restaurants along the pier, killing two birds with one stone. This option also includes actual seats, which are very hard to come by during the show. There are a few park benches for handicapped viewers—which apparently includes women of a certain age who can’t imagine being on their feet another minute after a day already filled with mouse sighting, princess hugging and roller coaster riding. Be warned: If you’re anywhere near the water, even 30 feet away, you will get wet.

There are many reasons to make World of Color the grand finale of your visit. It is awe-inspiring, not only in its showmanship, but in its walk down memory lane. It lights up the night sky with scenes of everything from Mary Poppins and Pirates of the Caribbean to Toy Story and Frozen, reminding us of how many decades Disney has been entertaining and amazing viewers, young and old.

Photos: Marc Weiner