With so many delicious dining options in St. Louis, it’s not often I’d say a $60 steak is worth it. But a recent visit to Fleming’s in Frontenac explains why this pricey spot is still going strong at the 10-year mark. There are many expensive steakhouses in town, and they’re not all as busy as this one was on a Monday night. For good reason. The food was fabulous—not over the top with cheesy, creamy, buttery dishes, like many others are. Just prime meats, well-prepared, along with excellent side dishes.
Take the Braised Short Ribs ($18.50), a small-plate starter that was melt-in-your-mouth delicious. The cut is rich to start with, but this one was so well-trimmed no fat was visible. It came simply presented in a demi-glace reduction, lightly browned all around the outside. On the plate, a mound of sauteed arugula made a good accompaniment, as the bitter greens cut some of the fatty flavor.
Steaks here are prime, and there is no question about error in preparation; if it’s not right they will fix it, but it has always been right. My petite filet ($40.95) was delicious, with an iron-crusted finish, as requested (this is an option every steakhouse should have), to ensure a seared crust, even when the interior meat is rare. Just the right seasoning—salt, pepper and parsley butter—made every bite a treat. And the ‘steak companions’—things like king crab, poached lobster and diablo shrimp—are just icing on the steak, so to speak. I had the Truffled Poached Lobster, a $12.50 add-on that enhanced my enjoyment of an already pretty enjoyable steak.
Just remember, this meat is aged at least 21 days—dry or wet, your choice—so it’s very flavorful and tender to begin with. When you add a complimentary sauce—say béarnaise or horseradish cream—it just gives you a little variety of flavor to play with. The add-on was a chunk of lobster meat—not terribly large for the price—and a dollop of caviar (also not too generous). But the two added a complexity of flavors that work well with steak (which, let’s face it, can get repetitive, especially when you’re eating 12 or 16 ounces at a sitting).
Do not miss the Fleming’s Potatoes ($11), a massive block of scalloped potatoes layered with cream and jalapeno and topped with tangy cheddar. I admire the way they executed this, which was not overly cheesy. Same for the asparagus ($11), which was simply grilled and buttered. One problem: The spears were not adequately trimmed and many came with tough stems.
For the non steak-lovers in the crowd, I can recommend the Broiled Pacific Swordfish ($33), which was tender, flaky and moist—so unlike the typical swordfish dish. Here it was very tasty, moistened additionally with ‘fennel cream’ and served with Israeli couscous and grape tomatoes.
Desserts are the usual suspects, from which we chose the uber vanilla-flavored Crème Brûlée. It had a great sugary crust and the requisite creamy texture, and lots of vanilla bean specks.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Elegant, clubby steakhouse
the chef | Steven Cox
the prices | $11 to $40 starters, $37 to $57 entrees
the favorites | Braised Short Ribs small plate, Petite Filet with Truffled Poached Lobster, Fleming’s Potatoes, Crème Brûlée, Broiled Pacific Swordfish
[chef chat] >> steven cox
pedigree | No formal training, but working with talented, passionate chefs over 18 years.
favorite ingredient | Seasonal ingredients, which now include butternut squash, cranberries and Brussels sprouts
favorite steak | Well-marbled rib-eye, fully seasoned and seared in cast iron
favorite cookbook | Louisiana Real and Rustic by Emeril Lagasse
most memorable dining experience | In Bangkok at Sukhunvit House No. 1. Everything was perfect.
1855 s. lindbergh blvd. | 314.567.7610
