This small Soulard spot easily makes some of the best pizza in town. Inside, a wood-burning pizza oven dominates the front room, where a bar takes up the rest of the space. A second room offers quieter (if less scenic) dining; and out front, patio tables offer views of the historic area where residents bop around in golf carts (perfectly legal) and visitors stream toward longtime hot spots McGurk’s and Tucker’s.
There’s not much of a menu here, per se; it’s pizza … or pizza. Proprietor Scott Sandler reportedly became fascinated with Neapolitan-style pizza and studied its finer points in both NYC and L.A. This is the delicious, light pizza crust we all came to love during visits to Italy. It’s chewy, but not dense, rich-tasting, but not oily, flavorful, but not crammed with toppings. In other words, it’s nothing like traditional American pizzas.
Luckily, these days finding authentic Neapolitan pizza is easier, since Americans have imported its very specific guidelines: “00” finely ground wheat flour (no additives); fresh mozzarella, preferably bufala; San Marzano tomatoes; baking in a domed, wood-fired oven at 800 degrees; mixing dough with only a spiral or fork mixer; and cooking no longer than 60 to 90 seconds.
Following these guidelines, Pizzeoli (which is a variant on the Italian word for ‘pizza man’) offers 10 different 12-inch pies, all of them vegetarian, some of them vegan. Our Margherita ($11) was delish, with light amounts of tomato sauce, cheese, oil and basil. With these pizzas, it’s all about the crust and how to enhance it. That means keeping it simple: toppings in general focus on high-quality grated cheeses, fresh tomatoes, and pungent, picked-from-the-garden herbs.
Our favorite was the New York ($13), which thanks to its three imported cheeses (fontina, fontinella, parmesan), yielded delicious bubbles of cheese fat on top, and thanks to its garden-fresh oregano and garlic, had plenty of pungent flavor (although it could have taken more garlic). The Affumicata ($13), also good, relied on its topping of arugula and smoked mozzarella for distinction. The arugula imparted a tangy bite that complemented the thick, melted mozzarella, but the smokiness was not detectable.
The Funghi ($14), too, had some punch, thanks to chili flakes and vegan sausage (which was very good). The sausage had a strong fennel flavor and the mushrooms—shiitake, trumpet, crimini—added some texture. The only salad on the menu is quite good, and big enough for two. It’s a plateful of baby greens with thin red onion rounds and long shreds of parmesan cheese, simply tossed with balsamic vinaigrette. Dessert is limited to sorbet and gelato, made by Gusto (you can’t go wrong with the Cookies ‘n’ Cream, if it’s offered).
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Small neighborhood pizza joint
the chef | Scott Sandler
the prices | $10 to $15 pizzas
the favorites | The New York Pizza, House Salad, Affumicata Pizza
[chef chat] » scott sandler
pedigree | I’ve been making pizza as a hobby for many years, and I felt the time was right to open a restaurant.
favorite ingredient | “00” flour
favorite restaurant | Seedz Cafe
favorite cookbook | My Pizza by Jim Lahey
most memorable dining experience | Keste Pizza in the West Village
guilty pleasure food | Oreo cookies and almond milk
1928 s. 12th st. | 314.449.1111
Photos: Bill Barrett
