Southern is adjacent to the uber-popular Pappy’s, whose owners have branched out from barbecue into fried chicken. Chef Rick Lewis, most recently of Quincy Street Bistro, is at the helm, and he’s brought along his expertise in comfort food. The interior is appropriate, with chicken-crate and chicken-wire touches. Much of the seating is communal at tall tables. Dinner is served only on Friday and Saturday evenings until 7 p.m.
This is a place where fried chicken is king, but other fried favorites come in a close second. There’s fried catfish, green tomatoes, Mofu and even fried bologna (in sandwich form). I watched intrigued as they fried the veggie of the day, Brussels sprouts. Like at Pappy’s (and Dalie’s out west), you wait in line to give your order, then have a seat and the food is brought to you on a metal restaurant pan.
An order of 2-Piece White ($10) came piping hot and delicious with a thick-battered crust. You can order your heat level (this is Nashville-style ‘hot’ chicken), so the choices range from ‘cluckin’ hot’ to mild, which will still have a bite. My ‘hot’ order was definitely lip-burning, so be forewarned. Plates come with two sides, bread and pickles. The pickles are divine, a little sweet and a little dilly. They’re not on the menu as a separate dish, but if you ask, you can get some for $3.
Don’t laugh, but a Mofu sandwich ($11), made with local tofu, was delicious. It came with a block of tofu deep-fried hot (in both senses of the word) piled onto a brioche bun with baby lettuce, pickle, tomato and creamy buttermilk-lime dressing. Each bite was a dripping, crunchy, hot mess.
A Large Fish Plate ($13.75) lived up to its name with a pile of curled catfish fillets. The fish was fresh tasting, but the thick crust overpowered all but the largest of them, leaving you with the sensation that you just made a meal out of fried breading. It also came with two sides of your choosing. Don’t miss the Buttermilk Biscuit ($3.25), which comes as a mini-loaf of delicious, moist bread accompanied by whipped butter and a stellar apple butter.
On one visit, the sides ($3 each) came to the table cold, but the second time around, that was remedied. The best of the bunch was the Southern Greens, which were slightly bitter and cooked with bits of pancetta. The Brussels sprouts veggie of the day had good flavor and, surprisingly, didn’t taste fried or even oily. They came tossed with slivers of red pepper. The Hoppin John included andouille along with its white rice and black-eyed peas. And the maple-glazed Butternut Squash came largely mashed, but not overly sugary. Mashed Potatoes and Gravy were deliciously potato-y but needed salt and pepper. The Mac+Cheese, creamy and crunchy from breadcrumbs, tasted like it might have some beer in there.
At the register, a chalkboard lists a few desserts— tempting ones: banana pudding, chocolate brownie, bread pudding, etc. There were no regrets over our Bread Pudding with Crème Anglais. The texture was soft and doughy, the sauce deliciously creamy and sweet. Speaking of sauce, ask for one to enjoy with your meal. We had some General Tso’s sweet and spicy Asian glaze, thick and sugary, that went well with all the savory food.
amuse bouche
the scene | Bustling Midtown fast-casual chicken shack
the prices | $3 to $7.50 starters, $9.50 to $13.50 platters
the chef | Rick Lewis
the favorites | Hot Fried Chicken, Southern Greens, Bread Pudding with Crème Anglaise, Buttermilk Biscuit, Dill Pickles, Vegetarian Sandwich
chef chat » rick lewis
What do you love about Southern food? | It’s the food I grew up eating. It reminds me of my childhood, and I like the satisfaction on people’s faces when they’re eating it.
Why Nashville-style ‘hot’ chicken? | There weren’t any around here, and it is taking off really big in Nashville and surrounding areas.
Where did you get the inspiration for your sides? | There are the usual staples, but we have added things like Hoppin’ John, which you rarely see. We are trying to find sides that complement the chicken.
Favorite menu item? | If not chicken, then the fried bologna!
Photos: Bill Barrett
