It’s not official by Guinness World Records standards yet, but the Gamlin brothers are certain their SubZero Vodka Bar has the world’s largest collection of the clear grain liquor. “They’re inventing vodkas like crazy: Swedish Fish, smoked salmon and buttered popcorn,” says co-owner Lucas Gamlin. “The sky’s the limit with vodka because it’s a neutral spirit.” Having cornered the vodka market, owners Derek and Lucas, plus third brother Jeremy, have also cornered the Central West End with the eponymous Gamlin Whiskey House.
The idea for SubZero came to the trio while they were visiting Las Vegas in 2003. Derek, who had worked behind the bar and in management at J. Bucks and The Cheshire, wanted to open a vodka-themed restaurant with his brothers on board. “I think it was right at the time when vodka was super, super hot, and there was no vodka-centric location in St. Louis,” Lucas Gamlin says. Having grown up just outside city limits in the DeMun area and attended Clayton High School, they launched their business in the Central West End. “We’re always really big supporters of the city,” Gamlin says, “and I think the CWE is the best place in the city to have the restaurant.”
SubZero started out serving sushi, but added upscale burgers to provide more options. “Burgers, sushi and vodka seem like a strange combination, but it works really well,” Gamlin says. “At first we thought we were doing great business, but sushi was a little limiting. We found people were coming before or after dinner, but not especially for dinner.” Diversifying the menu worked, and as business boomed, SubZero expanded into adjacent retail spaces, eventually doubling the size of the dining room.
The brothers delved into a second spirit in October when they opened Gamlin Whiskey House right across Maryland Avenue from SubZero. The menu features steaks, pot pies and hearty sides, and, of course, selected whiskeys. “Whiskey has always been my passion, and it’s in our family genes,” Gamlin says. Before the Gamlins’ annual Thanksgiving-morning golf tournament, for example, the men take shots of Wild Turkey. The brothers hadn’t planned to open a second restaurant just yet, but a variety of factors, such as Liluma’s decision to vacate its prime corner spot, spurred them into action. “As that space came available we put the pedal to the medal,” Gamlin says, “because that’s the best corner in the city for a restaurant.” Drinking trends gave them the final push. “Whiskey is super hot right now,” Gamlin says. “We saw the need for a whiskey house.”
Two more ventures have kept the Gamlins busy. Central West End residents looking to grab breakfast will soon have The Counter, a quick-service cafe that will double as the Gamlin Restaurant Group’s catering kitchen. A fourth restaurant and bar, Taha’a Twisted Tiki, recently opened in the Grove. “We’ve done the upscale thing here in the CWE and wanted a more laid-back place,” Gamlin says. “The tag line is, ‘No hurry, no worry.’” Additionally, the company has partnerships with the Rams and Blues organizations, which both have SubZero Vodka Bar clubs in their stadiums. The company hosts a tailgate in the Missouri Athletic Club’s downtown parking lot.
As for that vodka world record, Gamlin believes it’s only a matter of time. “We’ve approached Guinness and we’re on their radar,” he says. “It’s kind of an expensive venture. Probably this year we’ll bite the bullet.”
[blackened salmon with squid ink pasta]
Squid Ink Pasta
2 c. flour
Two eggs
1 t. olive oil
pinch salt
1 T. squid ink
Blackened Seasoning
1 T. paprika
1 T. cayenne
One sprig fresh thyme,
chopped
1 t. oregano
1/4 t. salt
four 6 oz. salmon filets
4 T. blackening seasoning
four 6 oz. portions of squid ink pasta
2 oz. + 2 oz. oil
4 oz. bacon (sliced)
4 oz. shallots
6 oz. blue cheese
2 oz. basil + four basil leaves for garnish
Salt and pepper
>> Mix flour and salt in a mixing bowl on low with dough hook. Slowly add eggs. Add olive oil and squid ink. Let rest for 20 minutes. Season and boil water. Roll out with pasta maker. Cut into ribbons. Drop in boiling water and cook three to four minutes. With a spider, scoop out of boiling liquid and place in ice-water bath. Once cool, drain and coat with oil. Portion.
>> Mix seasoning ingredients.
>> Coat salmon evenly in blackening seasoning. In large skillet over medium heat, add 2 oz. oil. Add salmon to skillet, cooking for four minutes on the first side, turning and cooking for additional two minutes on the second. Set aside.
>> In large skillet with 2 oz. oil, heat bacon until cooked halfway. Add shallots and cook until translucent. Add cream and reduce by half. Add partially cooked pasta. Bring up to a boil, remove from heat and toss in basil and cheese until ingredients are even throughout. Season to taste.
>> Divide pasta between four bowls. Place salmon on top. Garnish with basil leaf.
Serves four
By Rebecca Koenig
Photos by Bill Barrett