Town&Style

Happy Hour: Fall Wine

The weather has begun to snap into breezy days and cool evenings. Sweater weather is upon us and with it, the vibrant reds, golds and bronzes of the changing foliage. It’s the perfect time to drive up the Great River Road under the kaleidoscopic canopy of sugar maples, hickory, oak and co onwoods with picnics and wine in tow. Invites to tailgates, camp fire hayrides, and chili cook-offs are on the way—and we need to meet them head-on with the right vintages.

ahh … food & wine
Hearty soups, stews, risottos, and roasted meats and game are the fare of fall, thus the rosés and crisp whites of summer must yield to the richer fruit-forward reds and spicy aromatic whites with racing acidity and a touch of residual sugar.

Apple picking calls for crisp, acidic white wine with a touch of richness. Slow-roasted pork loin smothered in apple chutney can be paired with Chenin Blanc from Vouvray or South Africa (called Steen).

Winter squash is just about ready as the skins finish firming. Spiced bu ernut or sugar pumpkin soup begs for Gewürztraminer from Alsace. Chili (I like mine with a touch of cocoa and the smoked heat of chipotle) pairs well with fruit-forward reds such as Rioja Reserva, Norton or a California ‘Rhone Ranger.’ Barbara d’Asti marries with grilled venison and cherry jus, or braised veal shank with a gorgonzola and sage polenta.

Whether you are hitting the field for a tailgate, the woods to camp out, or just enjoying a fall road trip, grab a proper bottle and enjoy all the brilliance autumn has to offer.

fall wine suggestions
Domaine Zind Umbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl-Alsace 2013
jasmine, orange zest, quince, honey, nutmeg and ginger; $46

Man Family Free-Run Steen-Paarl South Africa 2015
crisp apple, white cherry, limestone; $11

Mauro Molino Barbara D’Alba Superiore Legaterre 2011
blackberry, rose, velvet; $42

Chandler Hill Savage Norton Black Label Reserve N13
blackberry jam, allspice, co ee; $28

Bodega Classica Lopez De Haro Rioja Reserva 2005
dark cherry, toasted coconut, spice and silk; $18

T-Vine Frediani Vineyard Petite Sirah-Calistoga 2010
boysenberry jam, pepper, chocolate; $35

Jeffrey Hall is the sommelier for the Four Seasons Hotel-St. Louis.

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