You just know Louisa Rechter is doing what she is meant to do in life, because when she talks about it, joy bubbles up. Rechter is co-founder and owner of Mestiza New York, a clothing line inspired by her and her business partner’s Philippine heritage. It’s characterized by Spanish matador brocades, 1960s bell sleeves and colonial silhouettes. In the span of three seasons, the collection was picked up by Neiman Marcus, and already has been spotted on red carpets. In September, Mestiza (a Spanish word often used in the Philippines for a woman of mixed race and foreign ancestry) launches at Neiman in St. Louis. Rechter will be at the store from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Sept. 21 for a fashion presentation event.
Where did you grow up?
Like my father, I was born and raised in St. Louis. My mother is from the Philippines, and it’s that heritage that has colored my career so far.
Where did you go to high school, and what was your look?
I went to MICDS from elementary through high school, and then later, Washington University. My look always started with a super-short skirt, so short that I’d have to run between classes to avoid detention! If the teachers caught you with a skirt that short, they’d make you wear some really ugly pants from the lost and found. I also wore high heels, and usually a polo.
How did you get into the fashion business?
I always was a Francophile. I loved everything French—the language (it was my major in college), the culture, the food and, of course, the clothes. I was drawn to aspirational brands—Christian Dior and Oscar de la Renta, for example—but could never afford the $5,000 price tags. After college, I took a leap and, without a job, moved to New York City. By a string of fortune, I fell into a job at Milly, where I was able to learn almost everything about the fashion industry. I stayed there until I went to work at Coach as a global ready-to-wear merchant.
Where did you meet your business partner?
And how did Mestiza come about? Alessandra Perez-Rubio and I met at Wash. U. and bonded over our mutual Filipina heritage. Our relationship always felt serendipitous and special, and after college, we stayed in touch. In 2014, we both were living in New York City. All of our friends were getting married, and Alessandra and I complained that we had no clothes to wear to their weddings. We met at a wine bar to commiserate, and a light bulb lit up: Why not create our own version of elevated cocktail attire, but at an accessible, contemporary price point? We started sourcing fabrics in New York’s garment district, found a small factory to make a set of samples, quit our jobs and started approaching stores. At first, our efforts failed; no one answered our calls or wanted to meet with us. But then we decided to adopt a more direct-to-consumer model and attended trunk shows in New York City and Palm Beach. We sold 100 pieces in two weeks and then had the money to invest in making more. In our third season, we sent our ‘lookbook’ to several buyers, and it happened to land in the inbox of Neiman’s top buyer.
Who wears Mestiza?
We do! We design each piece with ourselves in mind. If we don’t like an idea, we discard it. Our focus is mainly on cocktail dresses. My favorite at the moment is the Laura Bell Dress. It bells out at the hips, slims the waist with princess seams, and comes in a host of different colors and prints. It can be casual or over-the-top with cool embellishments.
What have been your favorite pieces of clothing?
Without question, a Marc Jacobs mini dress I wore in college. It’s white with a scalloped edge and a big bow at the bust. I felt so good in it, so unique. It’s yellowed now and doesn’t fit me anymore, but gosh, I had a great time in it. I’ll never throw it out. I also still have an iconic cherry dress from The Woman’s Exchange of Saint Louis that I wore when I was a toddler. It’s white with red detailing and has the signature cherry dangling off the collar. I’m keeping it for the daughter I hope to have one day.
What are your thoughts about St. Louis as a fashion city?
It‘s definitely on the rise. I’m really impressed by organizations like Saint Louis Fashion Fund, which is doing such a fantastic job bringing the business of fashion back to the city. Not to mention the attention we’re receiving for homegrown fashion industry celebrities—models like Devon Windsor and Karlie Kloss, and writer Derek Blasberg. As soon as there’s a factory there, I’ll be the first to sign up!
Pictured: Louisa Rechter