first impression | It was hard not to have high expectations knowing Michael and Tara Gallina of Vicia are behind the reimagined Winslow’s Home. But that’s what makes them so talented: The duo takes those expectations and runs with them to places you would never even think about. The space is casual, cozy and beautiful in the purest way—the perfect atmosphere to settle in and eat.
overall
One of the things I love most about this place is that it is ideal for families with young children, friends meeting for a night out or date night all at the same time. It’s relaxed but refined, and every dish was a ‘wow.’ It’s impressive that the unique ingredients were never offensive, even for those who tend to gravitate toward safe options. And any place that offers poached chicken, roasted carrots and polenta on the kids’ menu gets a gold star in my book.
wash it down
The Southside ($10) is the perfect sipping cocktail. None of the three ingredients—gin, lemon and mint—takes the lead, but instead they blend together for a slightly tart, easy drink. And the Old Fashioned ($8) is one of the best in town.
must try
Winter Bean Soup: $6
This is everything a soup should be: hearty, warm and a broth so good, it could satisfy on its own. The bowl was packed with beans, veggies, greens and herbs. The ingredients differed slightly from those listed on the menu, which means they really do work with the crops of local farmers.
Kohlrabi Tacos: $12
Listed as a first course, the serving of four could be a meal on its own. I was pleasantly surprised by the ‘shell,’ which was a slice from a large turnip (the farmer didn’t have kohlrabi) that stood up to what’s inside. The crunch contrasted nicely with the filling of oyster mushrooms (or Maine diver scallops for $18), black beans, sour cream, pickled tomatoes and salsa verde.
King Trumpet Mushrooms and Chicken Thigh Skewers: $8 each
The large chunks of mushrooms had crispy edges here and there with a glaze that burst with flavor without overwhelming the main attraction. The skin on the juicy thighs is a must to keep on: crispy and light, it was like the perfect tortilla chip.
Shakshuka: $12
Delightful! Clumps of creamy feta balanced the gorgeous tomato sauce; yes, gorgeous—in flavor and presentation. Plus, the perfect amount of heat envelops your mouth with every bite. The kitchen has the eggs down—cooked so that when cut, yellow rivers of yolk flowed among the bright red dish, all waiting to be sopped up by the heavenly plump, warm pita.
Grain Salad: $12
Veggies and grains easily can beat any steak or fillet of fish out there—if made well. Here, the grains were al dente, the squash and sweet potatoes not so soft that they fell apart, and a subtle punch of vinegar complemented the smooth green goddess dressing. Pea shoots topped the salad for a fresh kick.
7213 delmar blvd. | 314.725.7559
Pictured at top: King trumpet mushroom skewer with wheat berry salad
Photo: Bill Barrett