How can you not be intrigued by a restaurant named Polite Society? Started by a couple of veterans of the local dining scene, it has a dignified vibe of cocktails, literature and gourmet food. Located in charming Lafayette Square, its co-owners are Brian Schmitz and Jonathan Schoen, and the executive chef is Thomas Futrell, who has had stints at Scape and Blood and Sand.
The interior is warm, with dark woods, exposed brick and unexpected but attractive built-in bookcases here and there that add to the English library ambience. Be sure to notice the beautiful suspended wine rack over the bar in ‘room one.’ There are two other rooms, each attractive—and reservations are advised.
We started with a scrumptious Tempura Portobello ($9), a massive platter of deep-fried mushroom fingers with a light, oily crust and a dusting of micro sprouts. The dipping sauce was good, a combination of tangy poblano chilies and sweet tamarind. A small bites item, Potato Crisps ($5), were fried potato curls with an herb dipping sauce—tasty but not exciting.
I like the entree assortment here—about a dozen items ranging from mushroom ravioli and scallops to filet and pork shank. You shouldn’t miss the Chicken Duet ($23), an amazing plateful of food that includes a roasted chicken breast, confit dark meat, Johnny cakes and roasted heirloom beets. Each element was very well done, especially the beautiful crust achieved from pan-browning the chicken. The overriding flavor was a subtle honey mustard pan jus.
Also good was the Pan Roasted Monkfish ($27), served with a delicious, savory lentil stew, sautéed salsify and roasted turnips. The fish had good flavor, clean and mild, and this preparation let it shine with its simplicity. A couple of vegetarian dishes proved you don’t need animal protein for a gourmet meal. Crispy Okabe ($21), in particular, was impressive with browned rectangles of tofu scattered over a savory melange of goodies, including riced cauliflower, snow peas, lotus root and cilantro ginger pesto. The sauce, not too wet, was an irresistible soy molasses glaze: sweet, salty and umami all in one.
The other meatless dish appeals to the mac ’n cheese crowd. Offered both as an appetizer and entree, tender spaetzle came imbedded in cheesy Gruyere sauce. Creamy and rich in flavor, with a hint of nutmeg, the dish works better as a starter, I think, because cheese and noodles can get monotonous. Plus, the doughy spaetzle were slightly overdone.
A dessert of Banana Peanut Butter Napoleon ($10) could have been a standout, except for a distinct char flavor that detracted from its banana pudding goodness. Not a stacked pastry at all, it was a creative ‘cold mess’ of whipped cream, banana pudding, crisp pizzelli and banana fingers with burnt sugar on top (probably the source of that unwanted bitterness).
amuse bouche
the scene | Warm, sophisticated bistro
the chef | Thomas Futrell
the prices | $5-$14 starters, $15-$37 entrees
the favorites | Tempura Portobello, Chicken Duet, Crispy Okabe
1923 park ave. | 314.325.2553
Pictured: Diver scallops with seasonal mushrooms, Swiss chard, field peas and lemon pepper butter
Photos: Bill Barrett