Kudos to Tom Schmidt on the second location of Salt + Smoke. The South St. Louis spot is inviting and friendly, not to mention delicious. And it has the formula for success: large portions and reasonable prices.
The place occupies a spot that housed two Italian restaurants: Del Pietro’s and later, Mathew’s Kitchen. The interior is simple, with clean colors and decor; the menu is similar to the one revamped a couple of years ago at the Delmar Loop location. And it appears to be just as popular with families as with couples for date night.
You won’t go wrong with the Hush Puppies ($4) served with maple butter. The fried cornmeal balls are a little bit sweet, a little bit sassy with jalapeño peppers, and all-around delicious. Not as successful are the Burnt End Toasted Ravs ($10), which are a lot more breaded crust than filling—and what filling is there is a mash rather than bits of identifiable burnt ends.
I recommend a Bestie Combo, either two, three or four meats on a plate with two sides ($15, $19, $23). Whatever you do, order Prime Brisket, tender, tasty, marbled beef with this spot’s slow-smoked goodness. It helped Salt + Smoke earn the distinction ‘Best Barbecue Joint in Missouri’ by Southern Living magazine!
An off-menu special, Trashed Ribs, was too sticky sweet for my taste, but the regular St. Louis Cut Ribs were crisp and smoky, if a little fatty for my palate. The slabs were smoked and well-rubbed with garlic and spices (the Trashed version, also with sugar). Both the Pulled Chicken and Pulled Pork were excellent—lean, smoky and melt-in-your-mouth tender. Highly recommended.
Barbecue is no time to count calories, so you may as well go to town on the sides. The White Cheddar Cracker Mac was nice and mild, a good accompaniment to the smoky meats. Also stellar was a side of Brisket Chili, which had shredded meat and beans in a spicy sauce. Do not miss the Pit Beans with Smoked Bacon, which actually come with shredded meat; these are butter-soft and scrumptious. The Garlic and Herb Fries also are yummy.
Less exciting (and less caloric) are the Green Bean and Tomato Salad and the Coleslaw. Both come cold. Plates come with two sides, sandwiches with one. Plates also include a well-intentioned Bacon & Cheddar Popover, which doesn’t always come fully cooked inside, but when it does, it’s delicious. The pie here is so good, you know it wasn’t an afterthought by the kitchen. The Apple Pie ($5) has an unusual crust wrapped around slivered green apples and a light, sweet, natural apple ooze.
amuse bouche
the scene | Bustling, family-friendly barbecue joint
the chef | Pitmaster Haley Riley
the prices | $4-$10 starters, $9-$10 sandwiches, $12-$26 platters
the favorites | Hush Puppies, Prime Brisket, Fried Jalapeño and Cheddar Bologna, Apple Pie, Brisket Chili, Pit Beans, Pulled Pork, Pulled Chicken, Garlic & Herb Fries
food • ŏ • lō • gy
burnt ends | Highly prized, these are the fatty ends cut from the triangular edge of the brisket. They are traditional Kansas City barbecue fare and served crisped on the outside, fat-marbled within.
bologna | A fattier deli meat made of pork and beef with bits of fat pressed into it. As the name suggests, it originated in the Italian city of Bologna.
hush puppies | Deep-fried cornmeal balls; the name is thought to come from 19th-century hunters and soldiers who would toss them to their dogs during cookouts to hush the puppies!
5625 hampton ave. | 314.727.0200
Pictured at top: Prime brisket plate with green bean and tomato salad, white cheddar cracker mac, and bacon & cheddar popover
Photos: Bill Barrett