It makes total sense that Herbie’s, which occupied the old Balaban’s restaurant in the CWE, chose to move into the stately space vacated by Cardwell’s in Clayton. The two feel so sympatico in ambience that it hardly seems like a change. Chef-owner Aaron Teitelbaum basically has re-created his beloved spot a little west, and right in the heart of a busy business district about to get busier with the Centene expansion. The decor is a bit stark and cold, but the familiar Balaban’s art posters help.
The menu, too, is reminiscent of yore, focusing on upmarket fare with mostly French and Italian leanings, although several starters include Asian flavors. One example, Firecracker Shrimp ($14), is quite nice with large, wonton-wrapped scampi sitting on a bed of ‘Asian slaw,’ red chili sauce and sriracha swirled around them. The crustaceans were excellent, sweet and tender.
Just as good was a plateful of Shrimp and Grits ($15) topped with irresistible ‘buttermilk fried leeks.’ The grits were buttery-cheesy rich (the truffle oil didn’t hurt) and laced with an excellent gravy of veal demi-glace. Bits of porcini mushroom added an earthy quality. A cup of carrot-ginger soup ($4) blended its delicate flavors nicely, but the drizzle of hot oil on top was a spicy misstep—it was the first thing we tasted and overpowered the soup.
The Herbie’s salad ($9), however, was really good, with a light buttermilk dressing, romaine, bacon and a few thick wonton strips that added their pleasant crunch. And the Smoked Trout Pancake ($9) was exceptional, not too smoky and served as three thick blini with minced onion baked in.
If Herbie’s and its predecessor, Balaban’s, have a signature dish, it has to be the Beef Wellington ($33). The slab of filet cooked inside puff pastry is super- rich: beefy and buttery, with duxelles in a heavy demi-glace with porcini mushrooms. Every bite is divine, exemplifying why French food is revered. It also comes with marvelously prepared French green beans, sautéed to crisp at the ends, and large carrot chunks.
The Dover sole (m.p. $50 when we visited), is as good a piece of fish as you’ll find. Flash-seared in hot butter on the cooktop, the fish is served whole with skin well-browned and the pan juices deglazed with white wine. It is filleted tableside and served with a judicious drizzle of brown butter. The accompanying fingerling potatoes and roasted asparagus were perfect accompaniments.
When done well, a steak dinner can be transcendent, which is what our Steak au Poivre ($42), was. The prime New York Strip was judiciously peppered (rarer than you’d imagine) and beautifully seared on the outside. The meat was impeccable, with excellent texture and flavor. Sides of French green beans, simply buttered, and chive mashed potatoes rounded out the dish. The bourbon cream sauce had a mild anise-like flavor, but was basically a demi-glace with alcohol. The scallops ($30) entree also delivered, with four jumbo sea scallops lined up on a puree of parsnips, sautéed bok choy and dabs of sweet hoisin sauce. The scallops were impeccable, but the puree and sauce were super-sweet.
A couple of desserts, Blood Orange Cheesecake and Chocolate Fritters (both $9) were good.
amuse bouche
the scene | Upscale, bustling Euro-American bistro
the prices | $7-$14 starters, $9-$50 entrees
the chef | Chris Vomund
the favorites | Beef Wellington, Dover Sole, Shrimp and Grits, Firecracker Shrimp, Steak au Poivre
pedigree | Forest Park Country Club; I’ve been in the business for 15 years.
favorite ingredient | Pork
favorite cookbook | The French Laundry Cookbook by Thomas Keller
favorite st. louis restaurant | Russell’s on Macklind
most memorable dining experience | The first time I went to Niche on Sydney Street. I was in awe of the tasting menu.
guilty pleasure food | Dark chocolate chips
8100 maryland ave.
314.769.9595