Opened in December, this corner spot at Woodlawn and Manchester roads is already a busy gathering place. In appearance and mission, it’s not much different from its predecessor, the short-lived Winfield’s. There are sports TV screens in both the bar and dining room, plenty of brews bottled and on-tap, and elevated pub grub food.
The menu, executed by chef Michael Eagen (formerly of Cardwell’s in Clayton), is burger-heavy, with wings and smoked meats also well-represented. We sampled a few starters, one the delightful Bavarian Pretzels ($8). Three large, soft, well-buttered bread sticks came hot and served with a tasty, house-made cheddar ale sauce liberally flavored with jalapeño peppers. A bowl of Creole Gumbo ($5) was pretty good, with plenty of andouille and okra and a topping of white rice and chopped scallions.
The wings here are delicious, tender inside with crisped skin. Our order of KB Wings ($10), one of four varieties offered, was topped with sweet and spicy chili sauce, a familiar sweet, vinegar sauce dotted with red pepper flakes. Not as successful as the others was Smoked Shrimp ($12), four middlin’ sized crustaceans on a bed of bland polenta. The gummy ‘peach bourbon chutney’ on top made the dish too sticky sweet for an appetizer.
While waiting for a table, we saw massive sandwiches being served, each with a mound of fries and something stuck to the top. Turns out the ‘toppers’ were fried pickles, a signature item here. As are the French fries, thin and perfect (if not always hot); don’t miss them. We learned the sandwich is king here, and that explains its royal presentation.
My Candied Bacon Burger ($11) was outstanding. It was not over-the-top, which it easily could have been based on its description: caramelized onions, candied bacon and beer cheese on a pretzel roll. Instead, it was a dignified burger—made with grass-fed meat. The onion and cheese portions were judicious, and the bacon came as two thick rashers on top. Delicious.
The fried cod sandwich ($11), too, was a satisfying plateful of food. Served on a large, soft French bread roll, the nicely fried fish fillet was topped with greens, red pepper remoulade and ‘sweet and spicy chutney,’ which had a cinnamon flavor I found a little distracting. Another fish dish, Grilled Atlantic Salmon ($18), had excellent flavor and came rare as ordered. Topped with a flavorful balsamic mustard glaze, it was a generous fillet and came with delicious garlic-whipped potatoes and spaghetti squash.
The KB Smoked Meat Combo ($22) has smoked turkey, pulled pork and brisket on the same plate, with two sides and cornbread. The meats are lightly smoked, the brisket is tasty and tender; the pork, in a mild sauce, is quite good; and the turkey is just passable, coming a little on the dry side. Sides of beans and baked mac and cheese were atypical but good. Both were baked dry rather than saucy. The macaroni wasn’t creamy or cheesy enough for me, and the beans, also baked dry, had a sweet, molasses flavor. The cornbread, while good in flavor, did not taste same-day fresh.
Desserts here are few, but our Banana Bread Pudding ($7) was good, with a bready base topped with caramel sauce, raspberry sauce, bananas, berries and vanilla ice cream.
amuse bouche
the scene | Bustling neighborhood sports bar/ family restaurant
the chef | Michael Eagen
the prices | $6-$14 starters, $11 burgers, $16-$24 entrees
the favorites | Fries, Bavarian Pretzels, KB Wings, Candied Bacon Burger, Banana Bread Pudding
chef chat » michael eagen
pedigree | The culinary program at Forest Park Community College
favorite ingredient | Cheese
favorite cookbook | Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain
favorite St. louis restaurant | Pastaria
most memorable dining experience | Eating wild boar ravioli at Eleven Eleven Mississippi
guilty pleasure food | Slow-roasted smoked pork
10312 manchester road | 314.394.1365
Photos: Bill Barrett