The word that best describes Gerard Craft’s new spot in the former Niche is ‘smart.’ It’s smart-looking, with Italian tile walls, a tufted saddle-tone banquette, well-spaced tables and a clever display of colorful sardine cans above the open kitchen. And its food offerings are smart, with creative combinations like buttermilk sorbet inside hot carrot soup, and date relish served with octopus.
Of course Craft is a recent James Beard Award winner, and he didn’t earn that distinction by serving ‘safe’ foods. There is a reaching-for-the stars quality apparent in this menu, and that, too, is why he’s got a loyal following for his upmarket cooking. You get what you pay for here, which is not to say that every single dish is a winner.
We started with several that were. First, do not pass up the Warm Dinner Rolls with Black Garlic Butter ($3 for two). If anyone can bring back the old Parker House roll, Craft can. Dense, moist and delectably chewy, these were like a little bit of nostalgia heaven. Plus, when’s the last time you were served anythingbut artisan bread?
The Charred Octopus ($17) small plate also hit the mark. The octopus was tender with excellent flavor, and texture was added by its olive-date relish and hints of paprika. The star of the small plates we tasted, though, was Caramelized Carrot Soup ($12), which was poured tableside over a dab of buttermilk sorbet. The soup was thick, like a puree, and sweet. The buttermilk added a creamy element, and bits of ‘granola’ that looked like bran nuts added crunch. Would I have preferred the soup to stay hot? Sure, but then you’d miss the fun of watching it dissolve the sorbet.
The Potato Gnocchi ($16) didn’t live up to expectations. It was too mushy, and for that price, 6 ounces of potato noodles in tomato sauce should be perfect. Another pasta, Uni Carbonara ($20), though, was divine. Creamy from its brown butter, sea urchin and touch of cream, it looked like not much more than a plateful of house-made noodles with bacon (guanciale), but the taste was transcendental.
Our large plates delivered the goods, too. The Black Drum with mussels and sorrel butter ($26) was stellar. The fish, served skin-side up, had clean, bright and buttery flavor and excellent texture. The skin was charred and encrusted with herbs. The two fillets sat on sorrel-flavored white wine sauce dotted with plump, sweet mussels several cuts above the usual fare. Spice Roasted Chicken ($25) was also stellar, two quarters (white and dark) served in harissa sauce and practically blackened from a pan sear that sealed in its Moroccan spices. It came with the most delectable charred broccoli in preserved lemon sauce.
I suggest ordering a large plate to complement one small plate and possibly a pasta, because these offer the most food and the best value. On one visit, our Bavette Steak ($26), about 6 ounces of top sirloin, was excellent, done medium rare, seasoned well with herbs and topped with ‘miso butter.’ The latter was supersalty, which I don’t mind but others might. A bonus was the accompanying Hasselback potato, a delicious baked spud that came sliced, accordian-style, and buttered—a don’t-miss item.
chef chat» nick blue
culinary pedigree | Nine years working in kitchens
favorite ingredient | Squash, now that it’s in season
favorite cookbook | Pok Pok by Andy Ricker
favorite st. louis restaurant | Vista Ramen
most memorable dining experience | At Grace in Chicago, with my wife two days before we left for St. Louis
guilty pleasure food | Chocolate long johns