The great thing about diners is that they’re cheap and kind of greasy; the bad thing about diners is that they’re cheap and kind of greasy. The former City Diner, just north of the Fox Theatre, has gotten a face-lift and a menu redo, but it’s still a diner, with breakfast all day, sandwiches and daily ‘blue plate’ specials. Restaurateur Brad Beracha has taken it over and refurbished the aging interior in a ’70s palette of avocado, gold and rust—a very cool interior.
The menu, too, has been refurbished. There are the classics, like a patty melt and Reuben, but also some new twists like Rosemary Baked Beans and Crepe Madame. This being a diner, you can expect large quantities—sandwiches come on super-sized French bread rolls, for example. And most items also have the requisite layer of grease from the cooktop.
Our starters, Fried Green Tomatoes ($6) and Mushroom Toast ($7), were unimpressive. I’d skip that category and go right for what diners are known for: sandwiches and breakfast food. The Shrimp Po’ Boy on a large baguette had some kind of ‘spicy Cajun mayo’ melted onto one side that was pretty darn tasty. Combine that with its shredded lettuce, tomato slices and deep-fried shrimp, and it was very satisfying. I must note, though, that it was a little chintzy on the shrimp.
Quantity certainly was not the problem with the Cuban ($6.50), a generous portion of pulled pork, ham, swiss cheese and pickle on a baguette. There was something called ‘Cuban sauce’ on there, too, and the whole combo was rich, meaty and satisfying (if a little fat-laced from the pork). Fatty also describes the Prime Rib Sandwich ($6), a Thursday night special, but you can cut off all the fat and still have plenty of nice meat, seasoned by horseradish sauce.
Our favorite dish was the Mini Fish Tacos ($8), which were delicious in every way: the blackened tilapia was correctly spicy; the sriracha sauce was good and creamy; the tortillas were soft and chewy; the guacamole and other veggies were fresh and delicious; and cubes of pineapple added a sweet element that worked surprisingly well. Don’t pass these up.
A side salad of mixed greens ($4) came as a very nice bowlful of mixed greens, premium ones. There wasn’t much else in there, but that’s OK; the housemade ranch dressing was tasty. Another side, Rosemary Baked Beans ($3), was one of the best dishes of the night, its earthy pinto beans dotted with bits of bacon and very well flavored by fresh rosemary and a bit of heat from the chile pepper.
Taking advantage of the all-day breakfast, we sampled the Double French Toast ($5), which was pretty good. Two large slabs of bread were lightly egged and dusted with powdered sugar. The Jumbo Buttermilk Pancake ($2.50) was as big as a dinner plate and while more crusty than fluffy, it was fine. Spoon Drop Biscuits-n-Gravy ($3.50) was a massive serving of crusty biscuits cut from a sheet (not puffy individual buns) and positively swimming in milky gravy with bits of sausage. It came with a nice easy-over egg.
Overall, this place is a welcome addition to a popular entertainment area that could use more restaurants. It’s perfect for grabbing a sandwich before the show.
amuse bouche
the scene | Midtown diner with funky retro vibe
the restaurateur | Brad Beracha
the prices | $12 daily entrees, $5.50-$7.50 sandwiches, $8.50 breakfast skillets
the favorites | Mini Fish Tacos, Cuban Sandwich, Shrimp Po’Boy, Rosemary Baked Beans
chef chat >>owner brad beracha
describe the diner makeover | We updated the furniture and reupholstered the booths, as well as updated the ambient space.
food philosophy | Good food done great, a diner that offers more health-conscious food.
favorite dish on the menu | Chicken and waffles
how do you cater to the theater crowd? | We are built for speed, getting people in and out in a timely fashion. It’s a diner that’s more than a greasy spoon.
541 n. grand blvd. | 314.533.7500
Photos: Bill Barrett