Clayton is lucky to attract another elegant steakhouse. This one, originating in Rhode Island, is sophisticated in decor, professional in service and delicious in its food offerings. The 58th location for the chain, The Capital Grille offers dry-aged meat hand-cut on the premises. The space, once J. Buck’s, is elegantly appointed in dark wood with a sleek wine room and a see-and-be-seen bar area. The main dining room has a club feel, and a smaller room is cozy and more intimate.
The first thing I noticed was the impeccable service, formal but not stuffy. For starters, the server suggested the house specialty, Pan-Fried Calamari with Hot Cherry Peppers ($17). It easily could serve three or four and was quite good. The mix of rings and tentacles came with a medium crust, nicely fried and interspersed with red cherry pepper bits and banana pepper ringlets, also breaded and fried. The heat added quite a bit to our enjoyment, as did a drizzling of tasty garlic butter.
A ‘chef’s suggestion,’ Bone-In Kona Crusted Dry-Aged NY Strip with Shallot Butter ($51), was next. The meat was very tender, having been house-aged for 18 to 24 days, we were told, a process intended to break down the muscle. Sides here are à la carte and shareable. You also can get half orders, but they are much smaller portions at about two-thirds the price. We sampled French Beans with Heirloom Tomatoes ($11) and Soy Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Bacon ($12). The beans were rather bland, but the sprouts more than made up for it with their intense Asian flavors of hoisin and soy, plus sweet, thick lardons.
Overall, the menu has a nice selection of interesting offerings, in particular appetizers like Lobster and Crab Cakes ($21) and salads like the Kale Salad with toasted almonds ($12). The entrees are steak-centric, except for Roasted Chicken ($29), Veal Chop ($55) and Lamb Chops ($46). And there is a seafood section with five very attractive items. Our Seared Halibut ($42) was among the best fish dishes in town. Supposedly flown in fresh daily, the fish was delicately flavored, and its preparation very tasty with a light miso butter sauce and sake-braised shiitake mushrooms.
The small dessert menu is appealing, and if the two items I tasted are any indication, superb. A Flourless Espresso Cake ($10) is dense with a distinctive coffee flavor. The Cheesecake ($10) is noteworthy, with graham cracker crust and a crème brûlée-like surface—a very nice touch. All around, this place delivers the goods. It’s pricey, but you actually get what you pay for in both portion size and quality, not to mention service and ambience.
amuse bouche
the scene | Trendy, cosmopolitan steakhouse
the chef | Cliff Law
the prices | $9-$109 starters, $29-$55 entrees
the favorites | Calamari with Hot Cherry Peppers, Bone-In Kona Crusted Dry-Aged Strip with Shallot Butter, Seared Halibut with Sake Braised Mushrooms and Miso Butter, Cheesecake Brûlée, Espresso Chocolate Cake
food • ŏ • lō • gy
hot cherry peppers | Round hot peppers with a sweet, mildly spicy flavor.
ny strip steak | A flavorful, firm-textured meat with some marbling but not considered ‘fatty’ like the ribeye. Also called KC Strip Steak.
kona coffee | A premium coffee cultivated on the mountains Mauna Loa and Hualalai on the big island of Hawaii.
101 s. hanley road | 314.725.0930
Photos | Bill Barrett