Located on Watson Road, about a mile west of Laclede Station Road, this little breakfast spot is a bit of an anomaly. It serves the kind of food typically associated with greasy spoons, but instead does it in a chef-centric fashion. That makes sense, since it’s run by chefs, not grill cooks standing over greasy griddles.
Partners John and Mary Bogacki and Billy Oziransky cut their chops, variously, at Bolyard’s Meats, Strange Donuts and Pi Pizzeria. John is the son of the longtime Westwood Country Club executive chef of the same name; Mary was a pastry chef at the Four Seasons. This is their baby, and they’re committed to quality with locally sourced eggs, housemade lemonade and jam, fresh-squeezed OJ, and homemade pop tarts.
And they’re doing it at very approachable prices. A signature dish, the Nest Egg ($9), is a fluffy biscuit hollowed out to make room for two poached eggs from Buttonwood Farm, a judicious sprinkling of cheddar and bacon, pickled red onion slivers, a few baby greens and preserved lemon. The best thing about it? The absence of grease. The dish relies on the excellence of its ingredients, not a layer of fat from the griddle.
The biscuit is the star with a clean, doughy texture and buttery flavor. You also can get the biscuits in a wholly savory dish, Gravy Train ($8 or $4), biscuits and gravy. The crumbled sage sausage in there was good, too. The same wholesome quality was apparent in our Mushroom Fritatta ($9.50), a fluffy block of three eggs baked with greens and mushrooms and topped with goat cheese and tomato jam. Both ‘entrees’ came with smashed potatoes, a couple of Yukon Golds baked soft and smashed for a pan finish.
Big Dippers ($6) consists of thick, fluffy pancakes, excellent in texture and taste. We added a couple of easy-over eggs ($3) that were very good. On the heartier side, Billy the Kid ($9) offers a massive sausage patty (house-made) on a ciabatta bun (also house-made) smothered in meaty chili. The patty was good, if on the salty side, but the fried egg on the sandwich was overcooked, depriving us from enjoying a runny yolk all over that meat. Plus, overcooked eggs are rubbery!
This place is counter service, so you step up to the window and order, then get a seat until called to pick up your food. The counter is where you get to view an array of Mary Bogacki’s creations ($2-$3); they’re as pretty as they are tasty. If you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the Gooey Butter Cake. It’s super-sweet and sticky, with a delicious shortbread base. The Blueberry Coffee Cake has a cinnamon flavor with the ideal consistency for breakfast: a little dense and not overly sweet.
As a casual breakfast place, Yolklore has few seating options beyond a long, 20-seat communal table with tall stools (at least they have backs). Against one wall is counter seating, with backless stools. There are three or four freestanding tables, as well. One fun element to it is the open kitchen, where you can watch these young chefs work their magic.
amuse bouche
the scene | Casual breakfast spot
the chefs | John & Mary Bogacki, Billy Oziransky
the prices | $8-$9.50 breakfasts
the favorites | Nest Egg, Gooey Butter Cake, Blueberry Coffee Cake, Biscuits with Homemade Jelly, Big Dippers pancakes
chef chat» john & mary bogacki and billy oziransky
why a breakfast spot?
It was always our dream to open a breakfast restaurant, and we love the hours.
what is your favorite menu dish?
Each chef prefers the dish named for him or her: Mary B.E.A.R., Johnny Ham Hands, Billy the Kid
how is the different from the typical breakfast place?
It is far from a greasy spoon. In fact, we don’t even have a fryer. The drive-through is full service, and we try to use local ingredients as much as possible.
what different culinary contribution does each chef make?
Mary is the executive chef, Billy works on drinks, like the seasonal smoothies, and John uses his butchery skills.
8958 watson road | 314.270.8538
Photos: Bill Barrett
