As an exclusive seafood spot, 801 Fish delivers something unique: a mind-boggling array of dock-to-dinner table seafood. Certainly many places in town offer delicious seafood, but not in this variety (and, one can hope, consistency). Every dish tasted was superb: The fish was line-fresh, the menu items flavorful and balanced, and the execution near-perfect.
It’s rare you can say the following words about a place this pricey: it was worth it. 801 is a ‘small chain’ out of Leawood, Kansas, that opened 801 Chophouse here. This fish spot is only the company’s second, and judging from the bustling crowd, St. Louisans have embraced it. The restaurant is beautiful, with an underwater ambiance that somehow avoids being kitschy.
You enter facing the bar room; the adjoining dining room opens to a busy raw bar and the chef’s kitchen beyond that. There is a staggering selection of fresh oysters—from Cape Cod, Nova Scotia, Washington state and more—as well as tantalizing grilled oyster platters (eight for $18). The menu also includes iced shellfish platters ($38 to $179) and domestic and Russian caviar ($25 to $75).
A starter of Louisiana Style Shrimp & Grits ($17) was a sign of the treats ahead. The four jumbo shrimp were tender and sweet and very well coated in a spicy-salty Creole rub and plenty of butter. The grits were creamy and smooth, and the dish had bits of fresh tomato and scallion.
A salad of Grilled Hearts of Romaine Caesar ($10) was also memorable. Whole leaves were arranged on the plate, very lightly grilled to impart a subtle smokiness, with lardons, croutons and the most wonderful creamy Caesar dressing bursting with anchovy flavor. Also in there was a ‘63 degree egg,’ a sous vide creation that resembles its poached sibling.
The coup de grâce was a New Bedford Sea Scallops entree ($35) brimming with delightful flavors. The scallops were sweet, well seasoned and seared for maximum gastronomic appeal. They were accompanied by parsnip puree, cubes of butternut squash, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, crisp pancetta and a drizzle of cranberry gastrique.
Also good was Atlantic Striped Sea Bass ($35), a simpler dish of seared mild whitefish served crispy skin-up over wild mushroom risotto heavily scented with truffle oil. The overall flavoring was quite woody and a bit monotonous, as the dish was gray in color— we eat with our eyes, too.
Don’t miss the à la carte sides; if they’re all as good as our Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($9) with fish sauce, cilantro, mint and fresno chili, they will leave you pining for more.
Our dessert of Figgy Toffee Pudding ($12) was stellar in texture and flavor: dense and moist with figs and sitting in a pool of toffee sauce with a dollop of simple vanilla ice cream and ground pecans.
amuse bouche
the scene: Upscale, attractive seafood restaurant
the chef: Michael Sullivan
the prices: $12 to $75 starters, $34 to $55 entrees
the favorites: Shrimp & Grits, New Bedford Sea Scallops, Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Grilled Hearts of Romaine Caesar, Figgy Toffee Pudding
chef chat » michael sullivan
pedigree: Culinary School in southern New Hampshire
favorite ingredient: Blackening seasoning
favorite local restaurant: Blues City Deli
favorite cookbook: Thomas Keller Bouchon Collection by Thomas Keller
most memorable dining experience: Eating Fenway Franks on Fenway Park’s green monster while watching the Red Sox and Yankees
guilty pleasure food: Bacon
172 carondelet plaza | 314.875.9636
Photos: Bill Barrett