This popular neighborhood spot has become even more so, if that is possible, since a major remodel/expansion. Once home to The Hill Tavern, Anthonino’s came in 12 years ago and immediately became a beloved bar and pizza place. With the addition of a large second dining room in back and a more extensive dinner menu, it’s the go-to place for many who want good food at a good price. The original bar area is quaint, with its old, dark-wood bar, original wood floors, molded-tin ceiling and newly exposed brick walls. But it’s a noisy, bustling room. The back, while less ‘scenic,’ is also less commotion-filled.
As for the food, it’s solid and in the case of the pastas, noteworthy since all of it is fresh-made; no dried pasta noodles are used here. In fact, Anthonino’s was featured by The Food Network’s Guy Fieri in 2012 as a don’t-miss ‘dive,’ in his Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. The Fresh Cheese Ravioli ($11), which we had as an appetizer, was a classic example of how the simplest pasta dish can be transcendent, if it is well-made. The noodle skins were thin, with the divine texture and flavor of fresh pasta. A simple ricotta filling was highlighted by crushed black pepper, in the classic pairing of cacio de pepe (cheese with pepper). A sweet, delicious marinara covered the six noodle pockets.
The Toasted Ravioli ($9) is plump with ground beef filling and a touch of ricotta, pecorino and romano. They are excellently fried to yield very crisp, meaty ravioli that are not the least bit greasy—and maybe best of all, served piping hot. A pot of marinara comes with the dish for dipping (this was the famous Food Network dish).
Our entrees were similarly appealing. The Palermostyle Chicken ($17) is a very good pounded breast with excellent breading that is charbroiled and topped with capers, green olives, lemon slices and what they called white wine butter sauce. The sauce, however, is more like a béchamel, with a thickener, and while tasty, a little bit gummy in texture.
Same for the sauce accompanying the Shrimp Scampi ($16), eight delicious Gulf shrimp lightly tossed in bread crumbs and doused with butter and garlic during grilling to yield a delicious flavor pairing. The sauce topping them is not what I’d typically call ‘lemon butter,’ but rather thickish béchamel. An order of Pasta with Clams ($12) was excellent, the delicate flavor and texture of fresh pasta allowed to shine under a light oil and garlic sauce with plenty of clam flavor. The Cioppino ($18) also was good, but quite spicy, so be forewarned. A soupy dish, it was a deep red and came with deliciously sweet crab claws, shrimp and a chunk of salmon.
Entrees come with house salad, a very good Greek-style romaine salad with feta, kalamatas and red onions topped with creamy, sweet Greek dressing. they also come with a small plate of fresh pasta and your choice of sauce (both sides are part of the generous ‘full meal’ offering that, no doubt, helps make places like this so popular).
Dessert included Italian doughnut holes ($6), zepolle, swimming in warm honey. They were piping hot from the fryer and yummy.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Lively neighborhood Greek-Italian eatery
the prices | $4 to $10 starters, $11 to $20 pizzas, $11 to $22 entrees
the chef/owners | Anthony and Rosario Scarato
the favorites | Cheese Ravioli, Toasted Ravioli, Palermo Chicken, Shrimp Scampi, Italian doughnuts
[chef chat] » anthony and rosario scarato
culinary pedigree | Both went to the Forest Park Community College culinary arts/restaurant management program
favorite ingredient | Anthony: Garlic, Rosario: Basil and tomatoes
favorite local restaurant | Anthony: Brasserie by Niche, Rosario: Favazza’s
guilty pleasure food | Anthony: cheese, Rosario: Toasted raviloi
favorite dish on the menu | Anthony: Pizza, Rosario: Chicken marsala
most popular dish | Toasted ravioli
2225 macklind ave. | 314.773.4455
Photos: Bill Barrett