Sure, some places are around for 20 years, but it’s the rare restaurant that is still exciting after all that time. Plaza Frontenac fave Cardwell’s easily falls into that category, with a space that is still attractive and food that hasn’t missed a beat in all these years. And with plenty of competition from several new restaurants on the Plaza Frontenac grounds, Cardwell’s is still packing them in, which speaks volumes.
So what’s the secret? For one thing, chef-owner Bill Cardwell is hands-on; often you can see him visiting with patrons at the bar or dashing in and out of the kitchen. And his dedication to fresh, seasonal foods—which, while trendy now, was not nearly as ubiquitous 20 years ago when he embraced it—permeates the menu.
A longtime starter staple, Grilled House-Smoked Shrimp ($14.75), exemplifies the kitchen’s attention to detail. Three jumbo crustaceans are redolent with a sweet smokiness and light grill marks from their preparation. They could stand all alone, but don’t, since Cardwell has paired them with a thick, sweet-tangy, grainy mustard. Also on the plate, a fried cheddar-pecan wafer and a mound of nutty, toasted rice pilaf that takes the dish from a mere ‘starter’ to a much heartier level.
Entrees range from the simple (burgers, salads and sandwiches) to the intriguing, like the Low Country favorite, Frogmore Stew ($26.75). Whether you vacation in the Carolinas or not, this is a don’t-miss dish. The jumble of seafood and vegetables comes in a beautiful deep-red broth here (you eat with your eyes, too) that is layered with flavors. It’s well-seasoned and slightly spicy, with fragrant sweet basil as a dominant note and the slightest hint of something exotic—clove? In the generous serving are squash, calamari, shrimp, slices of scallop, mussels, salmon and premium whitefish, like halibut.
The Australian Lamb Chops ($32.75) further illustrate the talent in the kitchen. Two double chops come in a very appetizing presentation: rubbed with herbs and spice on the outside and trimmed so well, the diner doesn’t have to do a thing but eat the meat. The dish is a complete meal, with fresh green beans, a massive risotto cake and an eggplant involtini wrapped around creamy goat cheese and roasted red pepper.
Same for Pan Roasted Boston Lemon Sole ($28.75), a plateful of perfection. The fish, two nice-sized fillets, were beautifully seared on top—to the point of caramel-hued and crispy. They were covered in “truffle-buttered Ozark Forest exotic mushrooms,” which that night were oyster and lots of buttery little enokis. All of this sat atop a mix of sliced Savoy cabbage and Brussels sprouts in a buttery, creamy sauce. Yet more veggies—butterbraised heirloom carrots and positively orgasmic oliveoil poached baby russet potatoes—were on the plate. Most of the vegetables were local and identified as such. During two visits to Cardwell’s, I sampled five dishes, each one of them exemplary. So while I’ve always considered this place pricey, I do believe you get your money’s worth. Every cent.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Lively upscale bar and restaurant
the chef | Bill Cardwell
the prices | $8.75 to $15.75 starters, $16.75 to $32.75 entrees
the favorites | Grilled House-Smoked Shrimp, Frogmore Seafood Stew, Naturally Raised Australian Lamb Rack, Pan Roasted Boston Lemon Sole
[chef chat] >> bill cardwell
pedigree | CIA
favorite ingredient | Aromatic spices
favorite st. louis restaurant | Nobu’s
favorite cookbook | The Time-Life Food Of the World series
most memorable dining experience | Joel Robuchon’s Jamin, in Paris; everything was first class, including the food and service
guilty pleasure food | Bacon and fries
94 plaza frontenac | 314.997.8885
Photos by Bill Barrett