It’s reassuring to know you can get the same stellar Italian dishes in the county that originated on the Hill. Trendy Clayton restaurants come and go, but Dominic’s Trattoria, on the ground level of a tony condo building across from Shaw Park, is approaching its 20th anniversary and is still clearly an area favorite.
Packed to the rafters the weekend we visited, the stately eatery offered authentic and high-quality traditional fare—nothing experimental or inventive— but rather the perfect traditional Italian meal. The portions, not ridiculously big, were appropriate and the prices were more than fair. A good indication that things would go well was the amuse-bouche, a generous tub of black olive tapenade served with a bread basket. The bread was crusty and fresh, the tapenade subtle and buttery rather than the over-salted mess sometimes served elsewhere.
A starter of Eggplant and Shrimp in Cajun Cream ($12) was phenomenal. The pairing was good, both the veggie and the crustacean working well with the creamy tomato and red pepper sauce. The eggplant had a slight smokiness and nice crisp texture, while the shrimp came in succulent, big pieces.
Scampi with Garlic Dijon Sauce ($24.75) was a treat, with the shrimp being large and perfectly cooked: tender and sweet. The sauce had a tang from the mustard and was not over-garlicky, but lightly creamy. It came with a medley of veggies that were nicely done, as well.
Same for our other entree, Tenderloin Monte Carlo with Brandy Cream Sauce ($30). Here, the brandy added an underlying sweet element that is so delightful paired with protein and cream. The veggies, broccoli and carrots, were nicely done—neither too crisp nor too soft—and well-buttered.
A standout was the nutty, creamy risotto, a simple dish in theory but not in execution. As with delicious bread, a short list of high-quality ingredients (in this case, rice, imported cheese and seasonings) can create one of the most satisfying and memorable parts of a meal.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Italian restaurant
the chef | Dominic Galati
the prices | $8.75 to $12 starters, $13 to $19 pastas, $19 to $36 entrees
the favorites | Risotto side dish, Tenderloin Monte Carlo, Scampi in Garlic Dijon Sauce, Eggplant and Shrimp starter
[chef chat] » dominic galati
did you always know you’d go into the restaurant business? | When I came to this country 50 years ago, my first job was in a restaurant, and I knew then I liked it.
why the clayton location? | It is something for my daughters. An opportunity came along, and I felt Clayton had a good combination of residential and businesses.
favorite item on the menu? | Linguine Escarole
describe the cuisine | Italian, a mix between the north and south of the country
secret to success? | Hard work, enjoying what we do and not burning any bridges
200 s. brentwood blvd. | 314. 863.4567
Photos: Bill Barrett