The Kohns have reprised their popular EdgeWild restaurant several miles east of the original’s Chesterfield location, in Creve Coeur. They have taken the popular food and spirits pairing concept and tweaked it a bit here. As you may recall, they initially opened WildSmoke here, but the barbecue spot was short-lived.
This incarnation pairs casual foods with beers, which are suggested underneath each menu item. Everything is table service (not counter, like at WildSmoke), and the food tends toward big portions and rich sauces. A starter of New Orleans Cajun Shrimp ($11) had the crustaceans in a light cream sauce with a bit of bite. It was good.
Charred Tomato Soup ($4) offered a deliciously flavorful, thick puree of tomato, cream, basil and a little tang. But the standout starter was Avocado & Crab Salad ($12), which was more salsa than salad. Chopped tomatoes, onion and flat-leaf parsley came tossed with fresh crabmeat you could pile onto deep-fried naan. It was refreshing, with the lightest of lemony dressings, the flavors mixing remarkably well.
The Creole Penne ($13 or $19) was excellent, with spicy andouille, bacon, smoked shrimp and bits of white-meat chicken in a creamy and spicy sauce. Rich, but flavorful and quite satisfying. Also very good was the Blackened Fish Tacos ($10), which were meaty and well seasoned with blackening spice. The chunk of whitefish in each was thick, offering a satisfying meal. Also in the tacos were shaved cabbage, pico de gallo, salsa verde and queso fresco.
Fried Smoked Chicken ($16) was reminiscent of WildSmoke, with a smoked half chicken crisped in the fryer and served with white cheddar mac ‘n’ cheese. The meat was juicy and tender, with smoky undertones and pleasingly crisp skin. A side of Crispy Brussels Sprouts ($4.50), however, was disappointing, as they were practically uncooked and too oily.
The don’t-miss entree, though, was the Pork Chop ($15), probably the most moist and tender I have tasted. The 10-ounce serving was sugar-marinated, which infused the meat with that sweet element that complements pork so well. Additionally, it came with a sauce of apple butter and a stellar wedge of scalloped sweet potatoes heavily laced with jalapeno. The sweet and spicy elements elevated the dish, as did the tenderness of the meat.
The dessert menu is limited—Half-Baked Chocolate Chip Cookie, Brownie, Funnel Cake or Rootbeer Float. The Funnel Cake ($6) was what you’d expect of this carnival dessert: greasy and about as healthy as eating lard from a spoon. But the cookie ($6) was a sweet and salty hot mess—in the best of ways. Served in a ramekin, the dough oozed chocolate and half-cooked, sugary batter, and the salted caramel ice cream on top melted its creamy goodness all over it. Mmm.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Casual neighborhood dining
the prices | $9.50 to $13 sandwiches, $13 to $24 entrees
the chef | Aaron Baggett
the favorites | Avocado & Crab Salad, Creole Penne, Grilled Pork Chop, Charred Tomato Soup, Half-Baked Chocolate Chip Cookie
[chef chat] » aaron baggett
How did you tailor this menu to the beers? | It’s what’s considered American bar food, but elevated a little.
How would you characterize the type of food? | Casual American cuisine with a twist
What is your favorite item on the menu? | Avocado & Crab Salad; it’s really good, and the Indian fried bread goes well with it
How often will the menu change? | Quarterly for now, but we will evaluate after the first go-round
12316 olive blvd. | 314.548.2222
Photos: Bill Barrett