If you have never been to this Mexican restaurant north of the U. City Loop, you owe it to yourself to go. The food is homestyle and authentic—nothing fancy, but solidly good—and plentiful.
The place is family-run, approaching its ninth anniversary. Many servers speak Spanish-laced English, and although the menu has the usual Tex-Mex items—fajitas, tacos, nachos, chimichangas, burritos, chalupas, quesadillas and enchiladas—the flavors are just right.
The salsa, for example, is on the smooth side and loaded with great taste and just the right amount of bite. The chips come hot and a little on the oily side—the best way to have them. Do not miss the Chicken Soup ($6.50), a massive bowl of delicious broth that is both salty and spicy, thanks to very finely diced jalapeno and pico de gallo (tomato, onion and cilantro). But the real treat was its large chunks of chicken, generous amount of rice and the chopped half avocado. It was so good, I wonder why avocado isn’t served warm more often.
Similarly scrumptious is the Shrimp Soup, brimming with crisp-cooked veggies—including squash, broccoli and cauliflower—and enough tender shrimp to make a meal. There’s also some avocado in there, but not as much as in the chicken version. The broth is flavorful, a little spicy and salty, and heavily laced with cilantro.
El Plato Grande ($14.25) lives up to its name as a huge serving—nearly two dinners’ worth—of meat stacked next to refried beans, Spanish rice, sour cream, avocado salad and pico de gallo. The sides, all good, were the usual lineup of tasty Mexican accompaniments. But the meats included a very thin rib eye steak and a thinly pounded chicken breast—each pan-sauteed and delicious.
Camarones a la Diabla ($11) had an enormous number of shrimp in a thickish red sauce with some bite, but not too much, served with rice, beans and tortillas. The shrimp were nicely cooked to just barely done—the way to get maximum flavor out of them. Somewhat confusing is the assortment of guacamole sides, like the Guacamole Salad, served on shredded lettuce—not to be mistaken for Avocado Salad, which is a very flavorful blend of marinated onions, peppers, avocado and cilantro.
Dessert of Flan ($2.75) was tasty and rich, an excellent close to a very satisfying meal. As you can tell, you get a lot of bang for your buck here. It’s the kind of place where you can order a side of refried beans or Spanish rice for $1.99—and have enough to serve two or three.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Bustling neighborhood cantina
the chef | Andres Jimenez
the prices | $3 to $7.25 starters, $8 to $14 entrees
the favorites | Chicken Soup, El Plato Grande, Pollo Mexicano, Shrimp Soup
[chef chat]>> andres jimenez
pedigree | It’s a family restaurant, and I learned mainly from my mother.
favorite ingredients | Achiote, cilantro
favorite restaurant | I like steak houses.
favorite cookbook | Don’t have one.
guilty pleasure food | I really don’t have one!
887 kingsland ave. | 314.863.1880
Photo: Bill Barrett