Parigi is the new spot opened by Ben Poremba of Olio, Elaia and Old Standard. It’s a serious foray into the upscale market, located smack-dab across the street from Clayton’s Shaw Park, in a tony residential high-rise. The decor is stupendous, with art panels on the ceiling channeling the Paris heyday of Degas and Monet. The music is soft and sultry, à la Dean Martin, with tables and booths mostly placed between a long bar and an appealing wall of picture windows—a perfect spot for date night.
The menu is continental and heavily Italian with some French sauces like Bearnaise and verjus. By and large, entrees are à la carte, so you’ll want a contorni, a side, to share. And I advise ordering a starter to share, as well. Our Lattuga Grigliata ($9), charred Caesar salad, was delightful, with three meaty hearts of romaine lettuce lined up on a platter, topped with Caesar dressing, fresh parmigiano and a single piece of grilled bread with an anchovy fillet. The lettuce, dressing and bread all were delicious.
The fish stew, Brodetto ($25), is a don’t-miss dish. A version of the classic cioppino, this one had strong flavors—salt, lemon, wine and lots of bite—that indicated a long, slow condensation of the broth to bring out maximum taste. It came with tasty head-on shrimp, mussels, clams, a bit of white fish and what appeared to be rock shrimp or crawfish.
Since crusty peasant bread comes in so handy with stew, this is a good time to mention the bread service here. Generous and exceptionally well done, the thick bread slabs were served with high-quality olive oil laced with imported pepper/paprika and tangy lemon salt— positively addictive.
The two pastas we sampled, Pappardelle al Ragu and Spaghetti Burro e Cacio, were both exemplary. Tender, housemade noodles came coated with their respective elements, creating that mouthwatering ‘ummm’ response with each bite. The ragu ($21) was a slowcooked veal sauce with a touch of cream; the spaghetti, plain-looking to the eye, tasted rich with butter and pecorino cheese. Add some cracked pepper at the table for the unbeatable classic, Cacio e Pepe.
A side of Roasted Potatoes ($7) was stellar—don’t miss it. The fingerlings were lightly smashed to expose the soft insides, then deep-fried in hot oil to yield the most delectable, piping-hot treat. They came sprinkled with salt and strands of rosemary that clung to the hot, oily flesh.
An entree of airline chicken breast, Pollo Alta Cucina ($24), was tender and quite moist sitting in its French cream sauce flavored with foie gras. It was an inspired pairing, although the plate felt a little bare without a vegetable or starch. The liver sauce imparted a distinctive, earthy muskiness that went well with the chicken. A side of polenta ($6) was good, but needed a more defining flavor; the cornmeal wedges were moist and very rich, as if made with cream.
A simple dessert of Lemon Gelato was quite nice, with bits of peel adding to the tangy-sweet blend of flavors. A second dessert, Almond Frangipan ($8), would have been wonderful if it hadn’t come to us cold, from the fridge.
amuse bouche
the scene | Elegant and personal Clayton bistro
the chef | Ramon Cuffie
the prices | Pastas $8 to $23, entrees $14 to $38
the favorites | Charred Romaine, Shellfish Stew, Pappardelle al Ragu, Spaghetti Burro e Cacio, Roasted Potatoes
chef chat » ramon cuffie
pedigree | Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, plus 38 years in the industry
favorite ingredient | Catnip and marjoram
favorite cookbook | The Making of a Cook by Madeline Kamman
favorite st. louis restaurant | Trattoria Marcella
most memorable dining experience | Restaurant Guy Savoy in Paris
8025 bonhomme ave. | 314.899.9767
Photos: Bill Barrett