While operating for 20 years may not be a landmark among Italian restaurants on The Hill, it’s still an impressive achievement, especially for Hill ‘newcomers’ like Trattoria Marcella. The Komorek brothers opened their little corner spot (Watson Road and Pernod Avenue) 20 years ago, and now it’s not only doubled in size, having expanded into an adjacent space, but it’s also added a big patio and a second location, Mia Sorella, in West County.
The Komoreks have built their success on rustic Italian fare, which Steve Komorek traveled to Italy to study years ago. And the pair has more or less adhered to the classic Italian restaurant recipe for success: generous servings of very tasty food at reasonable prices. In this case, they don’t always throw in the extras—side salads, side pastas and bread— like many places do, but it still works. Both the food and the prices are very appealing.
A starter of Fritto Misto ($11) was a large plateful of flash-fried spinach topped with tender fried calamari and asiago shavings. The spinach came hot and oily, but not overly greasy. The calamari was coated with a light breading and not the least bit oily. The combination, when doused with a few squirts of the accompanying lemon, was unbeatable. Ask for some marinara to dip it in, just to mix things up.
Next up was Lobster Risotto ($23), which you should not miss, even if you prefer to share it as a starter or a side. The rice was nutty (if cooked softer than I’m used to for risotto) and the flavors were intoxicating. The lobster bits, more like chunks, added a rich and buttery taste that complemented the cheeses. Excellent all around.
Spiedini di Gamberi ($19) was seven breaded and grilled shrimp, prepared similarly to shrimp scampi, with garlic, breadcrumbs and oil. They were served over some sauteed spinach with a large risotto patty in the center. In this dish, the sauce has the starring role; it was a richly browned tomato sauce with the delicious and distinctive flavor of marsala wine. It would have been perfect, if the shrimp weren’t overdone, robbing them of optimal flavor.
Any place that can serve big, meaty lamb chops for $23 has pretty much won me over. Here, the Grilled Lamb Rib Chops were thick and delicious and came served on a large mound of eggplant risotto. The lamb was cooked exactly as ordered, medium rare, and was perfectly trimmed to yield a little fat for flavor, but not so much that you end up with a mouthful of fat-laden meat.
A dessert of Lemon Pannacotta was rich and flavorful. It was topped with a layer of raspberry coulis that added a little extra sugar to the very lemon-y dish. Salute and felice anniversario to this local gem.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Popular Hill eatery serving rustic Italian fare
the prices | $8 to 12 starters, $13 to $17 pizzas and pastas, $16 to $23 entrees
the chef | Steve Komorek
the favorites | Fritto Misto, Lobster Risotto, Spiedini di Gamberi, Grilled Lamb Rib Chops
[chef chat] >> jamie & steve komorek
what accounts for your 20-year success? | Our great team
what do you like about being near the hill? | It’s always a popular destination.
what’s the customers’ favorite dish? | Lobster Risotto
what’s your favorite dish? | Steve: Lamb chops with eggplant risotto; Jamie: Osso Buco di Maiale
3600 watson road | 314.352.7706
Photos: Bill Barrett