Weber Grill has launched at the northern end of the Galleria, and it is going gangbusters. Portions are generous and prices are fair. The interior is tasteful, with a contemporary vibe and a chophouse feel. It’s a bit noisy, but there are some quieter tables in the room without the bar.
Barbecue has been elevated to an artform here, with smoked, planked and grilled foods of every ilk. And if you happen to face the open kitchen, you are treated to a display of massive kettle grills going full-blast indoors (with an elaborate exhaust system). They cook with many kinds of wood, creating some exciting flavor combinations. Case in point is the Plank-Grilled Chilean Sea Bass ($40), whose cedar plank imparted the most wonderful flavor to the buttery fish. It had a light smokiness, further enhanced by a smoky tomato compote. Smashed potatoes came with this dish, as well as a veggie, grilled asparagus.
But you don’t have to spend $40 to get a nice plateful of food here. The Hickory BBQ Ribs ($19.50 for a half slab), were stellar, covered with a signature sauce that was sweet and tangy. And barbecue entrees come with cornbread and choice of two sides—hard to beat. Our coleslaw was deliciously creamy, and the bourbon baked beans were an impressive mix of various legumes, thick and sweet.
Another exceptional wood-fired dish was the Crab Cake starter ($9, $22 as entree). The very large patty, big enough to share, was flavored with poblano chilies and had a superb, crisp coating Also very good was the Grill-Fired Pizza. Our classic margherita ($10.50) had a delicious, chewy crust, meaty slices of tomato and creamy mozzarella.
The Honey Dijon Chicken Skewers ($8) featured a moist, skewered half-breast with sweet-savory flavor. To try a little of everything, get the firestarter Sampler ($9), which includes four starters and is surprisingly ample for the price.
If you’re feeling flush, check out ‘The Founder’s Menu,’ a handful of premium offerings billed as Weber founder George Stephen’s favorites. The 18-ounce Prime NY Strip ($60) is a massive hunk of delectable meat with excellent flavor that comes with grilled asparagus, truffled mashed potatoes and house-made steak sauce. The Grilled Twin Lobster Tails ($42) offers a unique smoky treatment for the premium seafood and comes as two tails dusted with herbs and cooked on the grill for a smoked, garden-fresh flavor.
As for desserts, they’re really good here—and pretty decadent. Big G’s Caramel Apple Pie ($6.50) was a cinnamon pie pocket stuffed with apple slices and served with a scoop of Blue Bunny. Carrot Bundt Cake ($6.50) was moist and not overly sugary.
amuse bouche
the scene | Contemporary, attractive, bustling grill
the prices | Starters $4.50-$11.50, Entrees $10.50-$60
the chef | Tim Eagan
the favorites | Firestarter Sampler, Wood-Fired Crab Cake, Plank-Grilled Chilean Sea-Bass, Grilled Lobster Tails, Prime NY Strip
culinary pedigree | I’ve worked as a chef at various hotels.
favorite ingredient | Pork
favorite cookbook | All About Grilling, in the Weber Grill series
favorite st. louis restaurant | The original Niche in Benton Park
most memorable dining experience | A chef’s tasting dinner at Farmhouse Inn in Napa. The views were beautiful and the food was amazing.
guilty pleasure food | Bacon
1147 st. louis galleria | 314.930.3838
Photos: Bill Barrett