The Restaurant at the Cheshire has gone more casual in both decor and menu in a recent makeover. When The Cheshire property was renovated and reopened a few years back by Lodging Hospitality Management, the company retained the hotel’s Old English charm, which leans toward the formal—including the dining room, which they must have decided was a bit stuffy for today’s more carefree lifestyle. So a few months back, they tweaked the interior with some communal tables, some banquettes and fewer freestanding tables than before—and down-priced the menu with generous-sized sharing appetizers and entrees hovering at the $20 range.
Executive chef Rex Hale oversees all the LHM kitchens, and his menu here displays his range, with plenty of variety and delicious, interesting dishes. Based on our visits, his menu is well-executed, starting with Toast ($8), a long piece of soft french bread topped with deliciously roasted Brussels sprouts, honey and creamy stracciatella cheese. Toasted walnuts add the finishing touch to an outstanding dish. Also very good was Mussels Frites ($13), a bowlful of well-flavored mussels soaking in vermouth and Pernod, and dotted with bacon and slivered fennel. It comes topped with fries, which of course go with everything. (However, I would have liked some bread to sop up that delicious br oth.)
A Butter Lettuce Salad ($9) was well-conceived with creamy green goddess dressing and fresh tarragon. The delicate greens were topped with crunchy bacon and Maytag blue cheese. One thing to note is that on several visits, the servers, while friendly, could not answer many of our questions—a sign that more training is needed.
The entree menu is short but covers the bases. Some plates are not huge, helping to keep costs down, however they’re big enough, especially if you get one of the a la carte sides for sharing. You won’t go wrong with the Sea Scallops ($22), which are impeccably seared. You get only two of them, but they’re huge and come with a nice plateful of butternut risotto, a tasty rice with leeks and balsamic flavors.
Another standout is the Pork Shank ($20), slowcooked and delicious with brown gravy, sauteed Swiss chard, roasted shallots and cheesy fontina polenta. The meat was soft and well-complemented by the greens. As for size, this was a large plateful of food for the money. Also good was the Rainbow Trout entree ($18), served skin-side up with a nice char flavored by the irresistible taste of browned butter and herbs. It came with roasted cauliflower and leeks.
The Charred Broccolini side ($9) is stellar, made with gochujang sauce and a creamy puree of sesame and garlic. Sides here are big and meant for sharing.
Desserts are $8, inviting and house-made. I’m a sucker for the tart-sweet tang of Meyer Lemon, the creamy tart served here comes in a puree of the citrus so that every bite includes some. Also very good and a bit different is Warm Pear Polenta Cake, which has a slight grain to it from the cornmeal and slivers of pear. Vanilla ice cream tops it, adding some dairy richness.
amuse bouche
the scene | Relaxed, cozy gathering place
the prices | $9-$16 shared appetizers, $18-$22 entrees
the chef | Rex Hale
the favorites | Toast, Sea Scallops, Charred Broccolini, Meyer Lemon Cheesecake, Pork Shank
How is Boundary different from the previous restaurant here? It’s a more casual and social setting with plates to share.
Was the interior updated? Yes. We now have brick walls and shuttered windows. The tabletops also have been changed, and we added another bar.
Favorite menu item? Kona Kampachi
What do you like about a small plates menu? It allows people to try different dishes.
Name one of your culinary inspirations. Alice Waters
7036 clayton road | 314.932.7818
Photos: Bill Barrett