Why not pop a cork? Sparkling wine doesn’t have to be saved for Valentine’s Day and New Year’s. Did you know it pairs well with nearly everything from tapas to dessert?
champagne basics
Champagne is basically used as a generic term for sparkling wine, but to be the real thing, it must come from the region of its namesake in France and be produced using the regulated methods of the region. Sparkling wine from anywhere else, however, is another story.
Champagne is produced from three primary grapes: pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay. Other grape varieties are permitted, but these three make up the bulk of Champagne production. Wines made from white grapes are designated Blanc de Blanc. White Champagnes made from the pinot varieties are labeled Blanc de Noir (white from red). Rose champagnes can contain only red varieties or a combination of red and white. This is achieved either by letting the clear juice from the red grapes macerate with their skins for a brief period of time, or by blending red wine with white to produce the cuveé.
the big kids on the block
People are most familiar with Champagnes from the big houses like Mumm, Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Taittinger and Louis Roederer. Producing prestige cuvees like Dom Perignon and Cristal, they make up 80 percent of Champagne production.
the little guys: grower champagnes
Sometimes referred to as ‘Farmer Fizz,’ these are the artisanal side of the Champagne region. They make up only 5 percent of the Champagne imported into the U.S. and are made only from grapes sourced from a winemaker’s own estate. This is what makes them special; they are indicated by ‘Récolant Manipulant’ on the label. These wines are priced lower and offer great quality for cost.
try this: farmer fizz from around the world
» NV Lilbert-Fils Cramant Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru: Meyer lemon, pear, apple, racy acidity, buttermilk biscuit, chalky minerality; $50-$60
» Gaston Chiquet ‘Special Club’ vintage 2007: grace, green apple, peach, crusty French baguette; $65-$75
» Recaredo Cava Gran Reserva vintage 2008: almonds, apple and earth; $40
» Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Extra Brut 2009: Exclusive to the Four Seasons Hotel-St. Louis; $125
[Jeffrey Hall is a certified sommelier and the assistant bar manager at Cielo at the Four Seasons Hotel.]
