I wasn’t sure what to expect when I met fashion mogul Nicole Miller, but I figured she undoubtedly would be chic and edgy, just like her brand. My assumptions were confirmed when I walked into RISE Collaborative Workspace and saw her finishing up with a shopper. She exuded a powerful presence, speaking with conviction and attitude without being flashy or over-the-top. Miller has it down by now. Having been in the industry for decades—and still just as relevant today as when she started—she has earned her authority on all things fashion.
Miller flew in to St. Louis, her second time here, with pieces from her latest collection to spend the day styling local women. That night, she offered her insight into being a professional business woman and fashion designer to RISE members and local fashionistas during a Q&A with RISE founder and CEO Stacy Taubman. While Miller’s clothes have graced the bodies of countless celebrities, she also dresses the ‘everyday’ woman. Her style is accessible to all, coveted by many. I spoke with Miller about her years of experience and how things have changed since she first started out.
Where did you grow up, and did that influence you in any way?
I was born in Fort Worth, Texas, and grew up in Lenox, Massachusetts, which was the squarest town ever. They thought I was crazy because I wore these mod clothes, and no one dressed like me. But my mom was from Paris and always very chic. She would order French fashion magazines, and I always loved looking through those growing up.
Any designers you remember admiring?
I used to love Pierre Cardin, Mary Quant and Yves Saint Laurent. I loved the clothing company Biba out of London, and I was obsessed with Twiggy. She was the cutest model ever.
Where did you study?
I studied apparel design at Rhode Island School of Design and then also studied in Paris at Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. I always wanted to live in France. We didn’t go much when I was younger because my mom didn’t like to fly. So whenever we traveled there, we went by boat. The school in Paris was very old school and traditional, and Rhode Island was very hippy and avant-garde. So one was creative, and one was very technical.
How did you get your foot in the door in such a large, competitive industry?
When I went to New York, after school, I worked at companies where I had previously been an intern. Some jobs were not the best. I designed rain coats for a while, and that was fun. I ended up at P.J. Walsh (a dressmaking division of Lynnwear Corporation where Miller was head designer), and the man who was my boss, Bud Konheim, is who I started Nicole Miller with in 1982. We scrounged around for $100,000 to start the company. My very first year, I made this dress that became the hottest dress in the country. We sold hundreds of thousands of them. That dress really launched our business and gave us cash to keep going. It looked very avant-garde at the time, but now it seems pretty conservative. I didn’t keep an original, but I found one on eBay.
What’s changed in the industry since you launched?
Everyone intellectualizes fashion more than it needs to be now. When we opened, I just wanted to make some nice \ clothes, have a brand and be in business. Back then, department stores were huge. B. Altman & Co. was a great store and would run huge Sunday ads saying, ‘Come see Nicole Miller.’ Bonwit Teller was another big one that had a store on Fifth Avenue. Now they’re almost all gone. Today, there is social media and online businesses that didn’t used to exist. Everyone is like a couch potato buying online. But of course, I want everyone to buy from my website! Although I like my boutiques to do well also. Online definitely broadens your audience and gives you more access.
There are a lot more ‘designers’ out there now. What are you thoughts on that?
The world has gotten to be more about hype than talent. It’s all about marketing. Talent now is knowing how to promote yourself. So many designers are just a figure head and behind the scenes. I’m directly involved in every single part of the business. I’m super technical. The Brother sewing company gave us an embroidery machine, so I figured out how to do everything on it myself. I did all of this embroidery work for the runway, and everyone loved it. Then I was taking orders to embroider jeans! I love doing the hands-on stuff myself and trying new things.
Has your brand changed over the years?
Times change, so of course the brand has changed. The silhouette evolves. I remember in the ’80s, we used so much fabric—like 8 yards—to make a dress. Everything was oversized. Except for our evening gowns, we might use 2 yards now for a dress. There are some signature details that you’ll recognize in my clothes. though. I’ve always used tiny buttons, and I’m really funny about collars. I like them shaped a certain way. I’ve also branched out into lifestyle categories, from rugs to cookware. It’s a great brand extension.
How was it styling St. Louisans?
Everyone who came in to shop was very chic and in great shape!
Any advice for female entrepreneurs?
Good luck. I think women are very resourceful; they’re go-getters. When they set their minds to something, they do it.
How have you stayed relevant and successful all of these years?
I don’t know, I’m just myself. I’ve resisted going dumb because a lot of big companies get complacent. I always try to do different things and am always involved. I still like to be active and enjoy water skiing, wake boarding, snow skiing and cooking. And it’s great having young girls around the office! They know the latest.
Photo: Maddie Stringfellow
