In November, an interesting little spot cropped up on South Kingshighway just south of Fyler Avenue. Opened by a one-time employee at the delicious India’s Rasoi, Himalayan Yeti offers dishes skewed toward Nepali flavors; these are definitely close cousins to Indian food, but different too. The food here is overall on the spicy side, the curries are brown and goat is popular. The restaurant is in a freestanding ‘house’ with parking lot, and while the interior is not unattractive, it has a bare quality. But with ethnic spots, you pretty much take what you get; you’re there for the food, not the ambience.
Especially good was the Chicken Soup ($5.95), which doesn’t resemble its Jewish counterpart in the least. Tinged orange with Himalayan flavors, it had a rich chicken soup flavor and chunks of white meat enhanced by some fatty substance like ghee. The broth is flavored with chili pepper, cumin, ginger and lime, with a sprinkle of fresh cilantro on top.
An order of the traditional vegetarian Momo ($6.95), steamed, was just OK. The dumplings, in thin rice dough, were stuffed with mashed veggies like cauliflower, onion and potato and had a distinctive bite. The accompanying dipping sauce was chunky, brown and hot. But the Samosas ($3.95) were quite good and different from others around town. The crust was very thick and flaky, no grease, and it, not the filling, was the main attraction.
After two visits here, I’ve decided the shrimp dishes are my favorites. Shrimp Curry ($12.95) was good, with a chunky brown sauce, but exceptional was the Shrimp Karahi ($13), a sweet, thick concoction of tender prawns, onions, tomatoes and bell peppers. Another standout was the Roasted Tiger Prawn ($12.95), a sizzling platter of broiled shrimp on top of roasted onions and bell peppers. The shrimp were crisped, thanks to their marinade of yogurt and orange-colored spices.
The curry here has a distinctive look and flavor, with sweet undertones. It’s also got a bite, which we first discovered in the Fish Curry ($12.95). Large pieces of cod came inside the sauce; I used the rice to tone down the heat. If you don’t like spicy food, say something in advance because they don’t ask!
An order of the classic Lamb Rogan Josh ($13.50) was disappointing: tough, gamey tasting and served with bones. Goat Curry ($12.99) was also gamey, but you expect it with goat—and the menu indicates the dish has bones. On the other hand, Coconut Lamb ($13.25) couldn’t have been better, the meat tender and the sauce subtly sweet.
The creamy dishes here were quite good, including Saag Paneer ($10.95) and Chicken Korma ($12.99), which came with dark meat. Of the breads, we tried Aloo Paratha ($3.50) and Onion Kulcha ($3.25, and by far the better of the two). The former was stuffed with bland potato shreds; the latter with flavorfully prepared onions. One thing you should know is that service here is noticeably slow. It seems there’s one waiter, one busser and the owner, who lends the occasional hand when he’s not seating people or taking phone orders. Bring your patience.
amuse bouche
the scene | Family-run ethnic restaurant
the chef | Dipak Prasai
the prices | $3-$8.50 starters, $10-$16 entrees
the favorites | Chicken Soup, Roasted Tiger Prawn, Onion Kulcha, Lamb Coconut, Shrimp Karahi
chef chat» dipak prasai
culinary pedigree | Many years of working in kitchens around the U.S.
favorite ingredient | Cumin seed
favorite st. louis restaurant | Publico
most memorable dining experience | With my cousin and his wife at a small restaurant on the Seine in Paris
guilty pleasure food | Fenugreek leaves
3515 s. kingshighway blvd. | 314.354.8338
Photos: Bill Barrett
