In kitchens and behind counters across town, St. Louis women are hard at work … and changing the shape of an industry traditionally dominated by men. They haven’t just cracked the glass ceiling, they’ve taken over the ‘corner office’—and at a very young age, too.
Take Ashley Shelton who, earlier this year, was named a James Beard semifinalist for Rising Star Chef of the Year. Shelton, 28, heads up the kitchens at The Niche Group’s Sardella and Pastaria, and on any given shift can be in charge of more than 20 people—many of them male, and often older than she. “I definitely like being different, but being female still has its challenges,” she says. “If a man barks an order, he’s seen as masterful; if a woman does it, she tends to be judged.”
Shelton has worked in kitchens since she was 17, when she took a job at Annie Gunn’s under then-executive sous chef Jesse Mendica. Shelton says without hesitation that Mendica, also female, always has been a role model. “I grew up seeing that passion. It was very inspiring,” she says.
Mendica—now executive chef at Olive + Oak—also has a faithful following in Samantha Mitchell, executive chef at The Libertine in Clayton. Mitchell, 30, worked for seven years as sous chef at Annie Gunn’s, and is the owner of Farmtruk, a ‘rolling’ farm-to-table concept. “You have to go a little above and beyond to earn respect as a female, and it was awkward at first,” she says. “But I try to lead with kindness and understanding, and in this business, people don’t always expect that.”
Both Mitchell and Shelton say they are excited about St. Louis’ food scene. “It’s insane how good it’s getting. Food events, food trucks, so many chefs forging their own paths,” says Shelton. “The city’s really finding its voice.”
St. Louis coffee roasters are finding their groove as well. And at Coma Coffee Roasters, another woman under 30 is at the helm. Macy Holtzman, 27, launched her business a year ago and is one of relatively few roasters in the city. She says coming from an entrepreneurial family has positioned her for success. “When you run your own business, you have a lot more invested in it,” she says. “There’s real incentive to work harder.” Although she says the coffee industry tends to be male-dominated (her own roaster—Connor James—is a guy), she believes women roasters increasingly are seen as innovators.
For now, Coma (which Holtzman co-owns with younger brother Corbin) consists of a coffee bar in the University Tower in Brentwood, and a roastery in The Grove, where it processes 400 pounds of beans each week. Some of those are used in the shop, and some are sold to local partners like Sucrose, Foam and Pharaoh’s Donuts. “Although St. Louis coffee culture is developing, there’s still a lot of room for third-wave roasters,” she says, referring to the movement that supports the ethical, sustainable production of artisan coffees. “But it certainly helps that restaurateurs are getting on board and exposing their customers to high-quality, specialty beans.”
Holtzman says she and her brother hope to open a second cafe at their Grove roastery in the next year.
