When it comes to Lafayette Square dining, it’s impossible not to think of SqWires. Located in a renovated Victorian wire factory, the restaurant has been a cornerstone of the neighborhood since 2001, offering elevated comfort food and a welcoming atmosphere. T&S spoke to owner Bethany Budde-Cohen to learn more about SqWires, her passion for food and what’s next on her plate.
Budde-Cohen was born in Belleville, Illinois. Her family moved to St. Louis, where her mother became one of the founders of the Child Grove School, before relocating to Michigan. While Budde-Cohen spent most of her formative years living elsewhere, she found herself drawn back to Missouri. “Except for one brother who stayed in Michigan, our entire family returned to the St. Louis region,” she notes. “We all just gravitated back. It’s amazing!”
When it comes to food, Budde-Cohen found herself drawn to cooking from a young age. “Growing up, there were six kids in the family,” she recalls. “Our parents gave us days where we had to cook and days where we had to wash dishes. I did not want to wash dishes, so I would trade with my brothers and sisters to cook on their nights. I got my first cookbook when I was a Brownie at Christ the King. It had an amazing chili recipe that I still stick with to this day.” That interest in cooking was nurtured by her grandmother and mother, who had their own talents in the kitchen and encouraged Budde-Cohen to experiment. “I followed in their footsteps,” she adds.
While attending a small liberal arts college in Michigan, Budde-Cohen got a summer job working for a commercial photographer. The position gave her insight into the world of food styling. “I really gravitated towards it,” she says. “While food styling isn’t always 100% natural, it sparked an interest in making dishes look lovely.” After moving back to St. Louis, Budde-Cohen became a hostess at Webster Grill and Cafe, where she got her first real taste for the restaurant industry. “It really just clicked with me,” she notes. “I graduated from hostess to book keeping and managing.”
Budde-Cohen took that experience to the Missouri Athletic Club, where she served as banquet manager. While the position gave her invaluable insight, she discovered the private club industry was not for her. “There were a lot of things pulling me in different directions,” she explains. “I wanted to become my own boss and answer to myself.” The solution was SqWires, her own restaurant where she could apply both her love for food and her experience with event organization.
When Budde-Cohen opened SqWires her goal was to reach 10 years. Now, the restaurant is celebrating a quarter century in Lafayette Square. “It doesn’t feel like it’s been 25 years, but at the same time, it also seems like it’s been 50,” she notes. “It’s been pretty amazing to see how this place has grown and evolved.” What is the secret to SqWires longevity? Budde-Cohen says the answer is pretty simple. “It’s our amazing staff,” she explains.
SqWires’ official birthday is Oct. 17, but Budde-Cohen plans to celebrate a couple days early with a special event Oct. 15. Throughout the afternoon and evening, guests can enjoy cocktails and mocktails, food and live music performances. Throughout the month, Budde-Cohen also plans to partner with local nonprofits for fundraising initiatives. “We’re looking forward to celebrating with current and past employees as well as our neighbors,” she notes. SqWires also is unveiling a new lounge dedicated to musician Tom Hall, who played at the restaurant every week for years before his death. The new space will be open for the anniversary celebration.
The lounge occupies the previous home of SqWires’ market, but fans of the restaurant’s pantry items and grab-and-go options need not worry. Budde-Cohen’s sister, Erin Budde, recently opened the nearby Picky Café. Not only will it be the new place to pick up SqWires items, the restaurant is serving as the cafe’s commissary kitchen, providing a daily menu of breakfast and lunch items. “My sister has been talking about doing a little cafe and market for 15 years—she’s always said it’s where she and I will retire together,” Budde-Cohen says. “Opening Picky Café has been nuts, but it’s exciting to bring another business to Lafayette Square. The neighborhood feels even more like home.”
Baked French Onion Mac and Cheese
Ingredients:
1 ½ lb. short pasta (e.g., rigatoni)
2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
1 ¼ sticks unsalted butter, softened
4 tbsp. olive oil
¼ lb. gruyere, grated
¾ c. parmesan, grated
1 tbsp. fresh thyme
½ c. heavy cream
1 loaf focaccia or your favorite crusty bread
Salt and pepper, to taste
Instructions
1. Take half a loaf of crusty bread and tear it into small chunks. Toss with 1 tbsp. olive oil and toast on a sheet pan at 350°F for 15 min. until crunchy. Let cool, then crumble finely and set aside.
2. In a large skillet over low heat, sauté the sliced onions with ½ stick of butter and 3 tbsp. olive oil. Once soft, stir in the fresh thyme and continue cooking on low heat until deep golden brown.
3. While the onions cook, prepare pasta. Drain, rinse, drizzle with a bit of olive oil and toss gently. Set aside.
4. Once the onions are fully caramelized, gently stir in the cooked pasta, gruyere, parmesan (reserve 2 tbsp.), heavy cream and ½ stick of butter. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then transfer to a glass baking dish.
5. Top the pasta with the breadcrumbs and the reserved 2 tbsp. of parmesan. Bake at 350°F for 10-15 min. until the breadcrumbs are golden.
6. Serve warm alongside buttered bread.
Photos by Bill Barrett
