When Ken Dean first tasted lasagna from the kitchen of his Italian wife’s family, it was a revelation. “I never realized how good Italian food could be until then,” says Dean, who opened Filomena’s Italian Kitchen in Glendale in 2010. “The pasta was thin and delicate, and it didn’t have a thick layer of ricotta. It was exquisite and a real eye-opening moment.”
Filomena’s offers lunch and dinner, both eat-in and to-go, and also operates a robust catering business. Named for Dean’s wife, Filomena Angelucci, who grew up in the Abruzzo region of Italy, Filomena’s was designed to be a true family restaurant from the beginning, the kind the couple wanted when their kids were young. “Filomena’s is the place we always wished we had in our neighborhood, where you could stop in and grab a quick bite or pick something up on your way home without breaking the bank,” says Dean, who comes from a restaurant background, with stints at various places around town, including Tony’s and the now-shuttered Duff’s Restaurant.
The restaurant’s recipes, although not exact replicas from Filomena’s family, were inspired by them, with clever tweaks that focus on fresh and affordable, Dean says. Customer favorites include seafood risotto—sauteed shrimp and scallops over risotto cooked in lobster broth—as well as cheese-filled arancini and lasagna. Authenticity also was key. “For the most part, I wanted our food to taste the way it does coming out of my mother-in-law’s kitchen in Italy,” Dean notes. “If you melt provel cheese over everything, it’s simply not the real deal. I’m not a provel hater, but it’s not something you’d find in Italy.” He adds that in a bow to St. Louis, Filomena’s does indeed offer toasted ravioli. “When in Rome …” he quips.
Although Filomena’s has amassed a loyal following of its affordable fare—the carryout family special serves four for as little as $26.95—Dean says he never wants affordability to mean sacrificing on quality of ingredients. “We really don’t cut corners,” he notes. “We use the best ingredients we can find—only extra virgin olive oil, San Marzano tomatoes, fresh herbs and freshly grated cheeses.” To help keep prices down, the menu is designed to avoid ‘orphan’ ingredients, those that are used in just one dish, Dean notes.
He and his team currently are working on revamping the menu, with the goal of expanding the catering offerings and adding a few new sandwiches to the regular menu. “We have a lot of good ingredients on hand, so we’re looking at what we can do with those to make new things,” he explains. “The process is both intimidating and fun.”
It’s no surprise that Filomena’s customers enjoy the mom-and-pop feel of the restaurant, with Dean often at the counter ready with a friendly ‘hello.’ “I try to interact as much as I can,” he says. “A lot of people feel more of a connection, knowing there’s going to be a familiar face greeting them when they come in. You can’t get that feeling from a more corporate scene.”
recipe: chicken parmigiano
Serves 4
4 chicken breasts
Flour
1 egg
2 c. milk
Breadcrumbs (fresh or store-bought)
High-quality olive oil
Marinara sauce (homemade or store-bought)
Equal parts freshly grated mozzarella and freshly grated provolone
Fresh parsley, chopped
» On two separate plates, place about 1 c. flour and 1 c. breadcrumbs. In a bowl, whisk together egg and milk. Using a meat mallet, pound thicker parts of chicken until it’s of a uniform thickness, about 3/4 of an inch.
» Dip chicken in flour, followed by egg wash and breadcrumbs. Place on a platter and refrigerate 45 minutes to an hour. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 450 F.
» Add 1/2 inch of olive oil to a large skillet. Heat over medium until it’s hot but not yet smoking. Brown chicken, about 3 to 4 minutes each side. Chicken does not need to be 100 percent done at this point, as it will continue cooking in the oven.
» Place chicken in oven-proof pan. Cover with marinara sauce (to taste) and top with cheese mixture. Bake for 7 to 10 minutes, or until cheese is melted and bubbly. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with a side of risotto, pasta or vegetables.
Photos: Bill Barrett
