You are what you eat is not just a saying. There’s truth behind those words. Food additives serve a purpose, but some have been linked to cancer in studies, as have some food dyes in kids’ snacks. It’s commonly accepted that fish is good for you, but is farm-raised fish as healthy as wild-caught fish? From farm-to-table foods to advice on artisan chocolate, there’s a lot to digest in this edition.
[farm-fresh goodness]
“I think everyone wants to know where the foods that fuel us come from,” says Kevin Willmann, chef-owner of Farmhaus Restaurant in south St. Louis. Willmann, named a ‘best new chef’ by Food & Wine magazine in 2011, practices what he preaches, buying from local farmers and producers.
“Restaurateurs are better able to respond to the demand for local products, thanks to the re-emerging local food infrastructure,” Willmann says. When buying meat, produce and other ingredients, he looks for quality. “I want to know what the animals have been fed, the quality of pasture and its soil history, the farm’s location in relation to commodity farms, and the sanitation practices and fertilizer choices of my vendors,” he says. “There are often trade-offs involved in getting food to market, but they have to make sense, be viable and be safe.”
Willmann says he doesn’t solely seek out food designated as organic. “We focus on buying the most delicious food we can find. Often, smaller farms that sustainably produce truly delicious, safe foods can’t participate in an official organic program, due to time/cost restraints. We always consider the source, not the label.”
[a spoonful of…what?]
Food additives and food dyes are found in most processed foods. Local experts say reading food labels is important.
Afua Bromley, Acupuncture Saint Louis & Wellness Center:
Food dyes are chemical compounds added to food to alter its appearance. Not all additives or dyes are bad. Some come from harmless plant materials. However, there are some synthetic preservatives, additives and dyes. The Food and Drug Administration officially lists more than 3,000 ingredients in its food additives database.
Other countries have more stringent standards: substances banned elsewhere are easily accessible in our food supply. Blue dye No. 2 (indigotine), a common food dye, is one example. It is banned in Europe, and was found to increase tumor development in the mammary glands and the brains of mice.
To avoid dyes and additives, avoid processed foods. Eat as many fresh fruits and vegetables as possible. If you can, freeze them; otherwise buy fresh-frozen. When you buy groceries, shop the perimeter of the store. That’s where you will find less processed foods. Above all, read food labels.
Amy Moore, Assistant Professor of Nutrition and Dietetics, Saint Louis University:
Food additives can be traced to our ancestors, who used salt to preserve their meat. Basically they are anything used to preserve flavor and enhance the taste or the appearance of a food. There’s a long list of food and color additives, and they all serve a purpose.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration regulates all food and color additives in food products, and these are generally recognized as safe. The key is eating processed food in moderation. There’s an amendment to the U.S. Food and Cosmetic Act called the Delaney clause that bans known carcinogenic additives in food. Many parents are concerned that food additives cause behavior problems in children, which is why they are so heavily researched. There is so much speculation.
Food dyes show up in kids’ foods to make them more attractive. Fruit-flavored gummy snacks are an example. Common food additives include xanthan gum, aspartame and monosodium glutamate.
[gone fishing]
What’s better, farmed or wild-caught fish? Depends on who you ask…
Phil Nekic, manager, Bob’s Seafood:
Farm-raised fish takes some of the stress off the wild fish supply. The most common farmed fish are trout, tilapia and salmon. Tuna and catfish also are farmed. Carotenes are used to enhance the color of farmed salmon: shellfish feed is the biggest factor in enhancing the color in wild salmon.
There are different schools of thought as to whether farm-raised fish are healthy to consume, and there are several websites that discuss fishery accreditation and safe catch methods. We suggest the Monterey Bay Aquarium website for information.
When buying fish, odor is critical. There’s a difference between a fresh fish odor and a fish that has been compromised. An ammonia scent indicates deterioration. A fillet should have a wet look. Find out whether your vendor filets the fish or if the fish comes to them that way. Once you take fish out of its natural casing, it deteriorates more rapidly.
Steve Smith, seafood team leader, Whole Foods Market – Galleria:
Farmed fish is produced on a farm specifically for human consumption, while wildcaught fish is caught in rivers, lakes and oceans.
Farmed and fresh fish aren’t necessarily different. ‘Fresh’ means that it hasn’t been frozen, so whether it is farmed or wild-caught, it can still be fresh. ‘Consumers have become increasingly concerned with ‘wild-caught’ and ‘farm-raised’ fish. By most measures, wild-caught fish is considered healthier. But if we consider environmental factors, like water quality and sustainability of fish populations, the question gets more complex. All other things being equal, wild fish is most likely ‘better’ because it lives and eats in its natural environment. However, farmed fish will be lower in mercury and less prone to environmental contaminants like PCBs.
Not all fish farms are created equal. Just as consumers have learned the difference between organic and free-range meat and poultry, they should become informed about the differences in aquaculture standards.
[gluten and dairy allergies]
What’s the difference between a food allergy and food intolerance?
Dr. Hamsa Subramanian, allergist, Signature Allergy/Immunology:
People are not ‘allergic’ to gluten, but they may be allergic to wheat, rye or oats, which contain gluten. Gluten is the elastic-like protein gliadin, which helps food bind together. We test patients for wheat, rye or oat allergies individually.
A food allergy causes an immediate response, from mild to severe, to a specific food protein. Sometimes it can cause a life-threatening response known as anaphylaxis. This can cause a precipitous drop in blood pressure or loss of consciousness. Patients may stop breathing. Patients with a food allergy must avoid the offending food at all times. A food intolerance or sensitivity comes on gradually and doesn’t involve an immunological response. Food intolerance can make people feel uncomfortable, but it’s not fatal. A food allergy and a food intolerance may share symptoms.
Celiac disease is an abnormal reaction to the gluten most often found in wheat products and is considered a food sensitivity rather than a true food allergy. Symptoms include bloating, indigestion, nausea, gas and diarrhea. Left untreated, celiac disease can result in intestinal damage.
Diane Friedman, nutritionist, Evolution Fitness:
A food allergy is an overreaction in the immune system to a protein, such as the protein in cow’s milk. When someone has a food allergy, the body produces antibodies that react against the protein. Cow’s milk allergies are common in babies and young children. Fortunately, they can outgrow them.
Many people can’t tolerate dairy because they are lactose intolerant. Lactose is a naturally occurring sugar in milk and milk products. Normally the body makes an enzyme called lactase, which breaks down lactose. But for about 70 percent of the world’s population, lactase production decreases with age. Consequently, lactose doesn’t get digested, resulting in gastrointestinal symptoms.
Enzyme supplements like Lactaid can help when you eat lactose-containing foods. But there are also many products that use non-dairy alternatives such as almond, soy, coconut or rice milks.
The degree of sensitivity to lactose varies. Someone who is lactose intolerant may be able to tolerate four ounces of milk on their cereal, but not a cup of ice cream. Or he/she may be able to tolerate some hard cheese, but not soft cheeses. If you have persistent GI problems, consult your physician.
[got chocolate?]
If you enjoy chocolate, learn what to look for when purchasing the sweet stuff. The 2013 Good Food Award craft chocolate bar winner, Askinosie Chocolate, knows a thing or two about the subject. “The Good Food Award recognizes American food producers who are outstanding in terms of taste, authenticity and responsible production,” says Lawren Askinosie, sales and marketing manager for the Springfield, Missouri-based business. Two of the company’s artisan chocolate bars have been nominated for the 2014 awards.
“Craft chocolate makers who work directly with cocoa farmers are making a really authentic product, which doesn’t have the fillers and the vanilla that can ‘muddy’ the flavor of the chocolate,” Askinosie says. “Our dark chocolate has just two ingredients: cocoa and organic cane sugar. So not only do you get to experience the full flavor of the bean, but it’s also relatively healthy. Dark chocolate contains flavonols, which are antioxidants.” Mass-produced chocolate bars often contain very little cocoa, she adds. “If you check the ingredients, you’ll probably see a cocoa butter or cocoa butter substitute that more than likely has been bleached and deodorized.”
By Mary Konroy
