Amarone is the wine that started it all for me. At the age of 22, when I was first learning my trade, a taste of 1964 Speri Amarone Classico Superiore spoiled me for life. I was in love and still am to this day. My fiancée is aware of this dark and romantic beauty and is willing to share. As am I willing to share it with her … sometimes.
winemaking
What makes Amarone della Valpolicella so wonderful is the process in which it is made. Grapes from the most mature vines are picked at the peak of ripeness, in mid to late October. The Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes are then dried through the appassimento process for the winter. This three- to four-month drying reduces moisture in the grapes by roughly 30 to 40 percent, resulting in intense flavor and sugar concentration that translates into higher alcohol content in the 14 to 16 percent range. The ‘raisins’ then are crushed, fermented and aged to create a rich wine full of intense flavors of dried black stone fruit, figs, tobacco, chocolate, spice, crushed herbs, and a wonderful sweetness that balances out the higher alcohol levels.
dining with amarone
Amarone isn’t cheap, as it takes nearly twice as many grapes and time to produce it. On restaurant lists, the bottle will start at $120 for good entry-level options. Open it early in the meal and decant. Be patient and let it breathe. While you wait in anticipation, order a Negroni. After the aperitif cleanses your palate, have a glass. Better yet, pop open a bottle of Franciacorta or Prosecco Superiore to enjoy with your appetizers and lighter pasta courses. Savor the Amarone(s) with meat and/or heavier pasta courses. It pairs especially well with lamb chops with rosemary or lavender. Let it linger through a cheese course and even into dessert. You may want to open a second bottle. You won’t be sorry.
amarones of choice
» Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2011, $45
Flavor profile: dates, stewed plum, cocoa (If you can find a 2008, go for it.)
» Villa Erbice ‘Vigneto Tremenel’ Amarone della Valpolicella 2006, $65
Flavor profile: dried black cherry, figs, chocolate, pipe tobacco, dried herbs
» Masi Mazzano Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2001, $150-$200
Flavor profile: black raspberry, dried blackberry, sweet tar, molasses, graphite, crushed lavender
Jeffrey Hall is the sommelier for The Four Seasons Hotel-St. Louis.
