An inviting patio and warm decor are the first things to notice here. The menu is as small as the place, about a dozen tables inside and the same number out, which lends itself to a cozy dining experience (although it’s quite noisy).
Following the doctrine that the quality of what goes into food directly influences the quality of what comes out, every dish emphasizes local provisions, like Midwest lamb, Crown Candy chocolates and Buttonwood Farms chicken. Chef-owner Ben McArthur, who has worked with chefs around town, has launched this place of his own, calling it ‘an American kitchen’ and creating epicurean twists on dishes like flatbread, meatloaf and chicken wings. Of the five entrees, one is a daily Missouri beef special, another a Blue Plate special and a third is Fish of the Day, which reinforces the farm-to-table orientation.
The liberal use of assorted seasonal veggies works much in the favor of the dishes. In fact, based on what we sampled, they often stole the show. Like the sautéed wild greens that accompanied my strip steak (from Three Springs Farm) and the wild mushroom demi-glace on top of the steak, which offered large slivers of woody goodness in a densely flavored brown sauce. These elements made the dish. Same for the corn and English peas (from Todd Geisert Farms) that accompanied the seared scallop entree. Each morsel was like a little treasure.
As a starter, the Flatbread ($12) was quite good. It had the requisite thin, crisp, artisan crust and a creative mix of light toppings: goat cheese, red onion slivers, arugula pesto, a few bits of smoked Buttonwood Farms chicken and a sprinkling of delicate sprouts. The melted cheese provided creaminess, and the pesto added a savory element without being overpowering, as pesto often can be. The chicken gave it some heft, and it was altogether a satisfying opener.
Another appetizer, Buttonwood Farms Chicken Wings ($10), was less subtle but still satisfying with inherent meatiness and a sticky, spicy glaze that was sweet and tangy. It was a generous portion and came with creamy white sauce.
My favorite entree by far is a standard on the menu, Cast-Iron Skillet Seared Diver Scallops ($24). That’s a lot of detail in the name, but in this case, it’s merited because it tells you just how beautifully browned these mollusks were—on all sides. Buttery and lightly crisped, the jumbo scallops were delicious. Each had a light dollop of pea shoot pesto, and they sat in a creamy, sweet ‘smoked corn bisque’ that tasted faintly of condensed milk. Best of all, the dish was dotted with corn kernels, English peas and rich confit potato wedges.
The beef Daily Cut, strip steak ($30), sampled on one occasion was, alas, exceedingly tough. The accompanying sautéed wild greens and garlic mashed potatoes and wild mushroom demi-glace were stellar, but that didn’t make up for the disappointing steak. The Fish of the Day, twice, was offered with “corn succotash and tomato ham hock broth.” Once it was Sea Bass ($26), the other night it was cornmeal-encrusted Black Grouper ($24), both of which were excellent, clean and fresh fish. The ham hock broth was super smoky, though, and too strong for my taste. As with the other veggies here, the corn succotash and accompanying potatoes were delicious.
Do not pass up Jordan’s Beignets ($9). The fluffy, eggy puffs will melt in your mouth. They were liberally coated with powdered sugar and served with delicious blueberry marmalade and lemon curd, a classic and inspired flavor pairing.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Warm neighborhood wine bar/bistro
the chef | Ben McArthur
the prices | $8 to $18 starters, $16 to $30 entrees
the favorites | Beignets, Sea Bass, Chicken Wings, Seared Diver Scallops, Flatbread
[chef chat] » ben mcarthur
pedigree | L’Ecole Culinaire and Forest Park CC for hotel/restaurant management
favorite ingredient | Chanterelle mushrooms, currently
favorite st. louis restaurant | Cafe Provencal
favorite cookbook | The French Laundry Cookbook, by Thomas Keller
most memorable dining experience | Bouchon in Las Vegas
guilty pleasure food | Pumpkin caramel over chocolate
3500 watson road | 314.353.9463
Photos: Bill Barrett
