Review: Pizzeria da Gloria
first impression | When it comes to pizza in the StL, it’s difficult to imagine a more daunting place to make a name for yourself than The Hill. However, in a little under a year, Pizzeria da Gloria has managed to do just that. Pizzaiolo Joe Kurowski spent time in both New York and Italy honing his craft, and he brings passion and expertise to the restaurant’s innovative pies. Currently, the pizzeria is open for dine in, pick up and delivery.
» Meatballs, $10: Made from locally sourced brisket, this is a solid appetizer. The meatballs are topped with a flavorful tomato sauce and served over ricotta, which offers a nice creamy contrast to the savory sauce and meat, and fresh basil adds some brightness. You get about five meatballs, which makes it a great dish to share.
» Bonci Pizza, $17: This is a showstopper. There is no question that the arrangement of thinly sliced eggplant is aesthetically pleasing as well—and it’s equally pleasing to the palate. This is a pretty simple pie with only the eggplant, garlic chili oil and parsley. If you aren’t a fan of eggplant, this probably isn’t for you, but everyone else should consider giving this a try, even if the idea of cheeseless pizza is a little daunting.
» Broccoli Rabe & Sausage Pizza, $18: Like eggplant, broccoli rabe can be an acquired taste. The bitter veggie pairs well with the housemade sausage and mozzarella and pecorino romano cheeses. Like the Bonci Pizza, this one packs a bit of a punch thanks to garlic chili oil. It’s a nice but not overhwelming burn, but if spicy isn’t for you, it’s something to be aware of.
» Patate Pizza, $17: I have never considered a potato pizza before. Clearly, I need to think bigger. The Yukon gold potatoes on this pie were crispy and delicious. Paired with rosemary and chives, they did taste a bit like breakfast potatoes, but that certainly isn’t a complaint. You can get this pizza with pancetta, which I only imagine would add to the breakfast vibe.
» Pear Streusel, $10: Saving room for dessert is definitely worth it. The oven roasted pears were tender and paired wonderfully with the streusel topping, which adds texture and a little extra sweetness. It’s finished perfectly with homemade whipped cream.
You can’t go wrong with a nice slice of ’za, and the pies at Pizzeria de Gloria are beyond nice. Whether you’re looking for something simple like cheese and pepperoni or wanting to try something a little more unique, you’re certain to find a pizza that appeals to you.
2024 Marconi Ave.
Pictured at top: Bonci Pizza – Thinly sliced roasted eggplant, garlic chili oil, parsley
Photo: Bill Barrett