first impression | Chef Matthew Glickert made his name working for Bill Caldwell and then serving up barbecue at Sugarfire Smoke House for six years. At the beginning of this year, he branched out on his own, partnering with Bryan Herr of Naked Vine to open Westchester. The upscale eatery in Chesterfield is focused on a shifting menu of seasonal, locally sourced fare.

wash it down
Along with an impressive wine list and beer selection, Westchester has a menu of signature and classic cocktails. For those who don’t wish to imbibe, the restaurant also offers mocktail options. The Isbell ($8) includes house-made kombucha, tonic syrup, club soda, lemon spray and Luxardo cherry. It was a refreshing option that even those who aren’t the biggest fans of kombucha can enjoy.

must try

Westchester Onion Soup, $10: Westchester’s take on a French onion soup, this is a solid option for a starter. The broth is rich and flavorful, and it works wonderfully with the sourdough croutons and gruyere cheese that tops it. A traditional take, but one that hardly needs an update.

Duck Fat Truffle Fries, $13: Who can resist a good French fry? And these are good fries—crisp and golden on the outside and light and fluffy on the inside. Truffle salt offers unami richness that’s well balanced by shaved Parmigiano Reggiano. The dish is served with a trio of sauces: peppercorn aioli, spicy ketchup and a house special sauce. However, our dining party agreed that the fries really don’t need them.

“Chorizo” Spiced Grilled Mushroom Fettuccine, $32: A very hearty vegetarian option, it features local mushrooms, house-made noodles, baby kale, spinach and fresh mozzarella in a smoked tomato bechamel sauce. The chorizo spice doesn’t offer much heat, but it is well balanced with the rest of the flavors, making a warm and comforting dish.

Pan Roasted Halibut, $46: This is an excellent fish dish. Paired with summer succotash, pork belly, corn puree and tomato relish, the halibut was perfectly cooked. The flavors are bright and fresh. It may seem like a lot is going on with this dish, but it all works together wonderfully.

Five Layer Chocolate Cake, $9: Like any chocolate cake worth its weight, this is a rich dessert. It’s served with chocolate and caramel sauces, whipped cream and fresh berries, which add some needed brightness to a very decadent dish.

Unassumingly tucked away in a strip mall, entering Westchester is almost like stepping into another time and place. With dark wooden walls, moody lighting and a beautiful bar as a centerpiece, its atmosphere feels more like a big city bar than a restaurant in the burbs. The food is definitely worth a trip to Chesterfield, and since the menu changes regularly, it’s best to plan for a return visit.

127 Chesterfield Towne Center

Pictured at top: Sesame crusted grilled salmon with Thai-chili glaze, steamed white rice, soy glazed vegetable stir fry
Photo: Bill Barrett