Set in the former Liluma , this is owned by the same Clayton-raised brothers who own Sub Zero: Lucas and Derek Gamlin. And judging by the crowds, a restaurant that serves dozens of whiskies by the shot (not to mention whiskey-laced food) is an idea whose time has come.
The space has been nicely redecorated with attractive dark woods and tufted gold booths and fixtures. The drinks menu is brought to the table in a clever whiskey bottle crate. Whiskey is an umbrella category encompassing distilled spirits made from the fermented mash of grain and aged in oak. This includes rye, bourbon and scotch (but not vodka and gin).
The executive chef here is Ivy Magruder, who headed culinary operations at 1111 Mississippi since 2003. In keeping with the Southern origins of American whiskey (Jim Beam is from Kentucky), the menu is Southern-inspired. Our starter, Booker’s Flame Grilled Oysters ($12), was original and good. The five oysters came on the shell, topped with a tasty blend of butter, parmesan cheese, bacon, bourbon and shallots. An order of Kale Chips ($7) was interesting—very dry, having been baked until crisp and crunchy, but combining some nice flavors in large kale leaves encrusted with a dab of tomato sauce and cashew butter.
The soup special, sweet potato ($7), gets another nod: a dense, slightly creamy puree with fried sage on top. The nine entrees are heavy on steak and potpie, and all include a choice of the 13 sides in the price.
Bourbon Hoisin Glazed Tuna ($26) was excellent, served lightly seared all around, raw inside and slathered with a sweet, spicy brown sauce of soy, chili, honey, bourbon, molasses, garlic and lime. Another entrée, Patio Steak ($26), came sliced and topped with gravy tasting of Worchestershire sauce—very vinegary and pungent—and a generous dose of bourbon—too heavy-handed for me.
The Moon Dance Farm Pot Pie ($20) combined meat and potatoes in a tasty version of the classic, with a stewy mix of grass-fed beef, corn, peas and fresh carrots piled atop mashed potatoes. The ‘pie’ part was a flaky pastry topping. My favorite dish, though, is the Blackened Salmon Pasta ($21), if just for the papardelle in cream sauce thickened with bleu cheese. There was a certain artistry to the black noodles on the bottom tinted with squid ink, the creamy white sauce, followed by the blackened salmon on top.
In the sides category, Bourbon Fries were outstanding, very salty and served with a dipping sauce of bourbon-sweetened barbecue sauce. The pan-browned cauliflower was much less impressive; it tasted burned, with an unpleasant flavor. I appreciate creativity in the kitchen, but the sauteed Brussels Sprout Slaw had barely cooked sprouts, which were too bitter, mixed with cheese and vinegar.
But desserts had us ending on an up note; the selection is varied, and our French Macarons ($8) were quite nice, consisting of four delicate sandwich cookies: vanilla, lemon, chocolate and pistachio.
[ chef chat ] >> ivy magruder
PEDIGREE | Johnson & Wales in Charleston, S.C.
FAVORITE RESTAURANT | Pappy’s, Sidney St. Cafe, Cielo, Coastal Bistro
FAVORITE COOKBOOK | The French Laundry by Thomas Keller
MOST MEMORABLE DINING EXPERIENCE | French Laundry, 12 or 13 years ago. Every single bite, every single sip, every plate that came out exceeded expectations. There was not one single thing I walked away saying, I would have done that differently.
GUILTY PLEASURE FOOD | At least once a day, I have popcorn
[ amuse bouche ]
THE SCENE | Very hip lounge and restaurant
THE CHEF | Ivy Magruder
THE PRICES | $7 to $13 starters; $17 to $35 entrees
THE FAVORITES | Bourbon Hoisin Glazed Tuna, Booker’s Flame-Grilled Oysters, House-Cut Bourbon Fries, Blackened Salmon Pasta
236 n. euclid ave. | 314.875.9500
By Jonathan Carli
Photos by Bill Barrett
