Barbecue has come to the Loop, in Tom Schmidt’s re-formulated eatery across from Blueberry Hill. He is the force behind Franco in Soulard and the short-lived Nico’s, whose space has now been turned into Salt & Smoke, a place devoted to house-smoked meats and a variety of ’cue sauces.
The smoking process here yields very good results: firm meats with good flavors. Just walking by the place gives you a whiff of what to expect from the giant smoker perched on the adjacent parking lot. The ribs are pink inside, charred on the outside; the chicken has a good blackened crust and smoky meat. And the sauces— with funky names like My Sweet Bestie, Hotangy and Mustarolina—are excellent.
Bestie is thick and uber-sweet, tasting just like blackstrap molasses right out of the jar. Hotangy has more bite and is an appealing red and runny sauce. Mustarolina is yellow, with a kick and mustardy flavor. The black rub accompanying most of the meats tastes primarily of paprika, chili powder and black pepper. There could be some cayenne, dry mustard and allspice in there, too. It’s flavorful without being overbearing, like some rubs can get if they include a strong, incongruent spice, like clove or nutmeg.
A starter of Smoked Wings ($10) offered four of the biggest I’ve seen, smoky and black with dry rub. They were meaty and flavorful and came with a white ranch dipping sauce, but with a nice kick. Another starter, Deviled Eggs ($5), was ho-hum, too mayonnaise-y and not particularly original in flavor or presentation. The Hush Puppies ($4) were tasty but on the oily side; the accompanying maple butter—delish.
A slab of ribs ($14 per half-rack) was excellent in taste and texture. A few of the pieces were too fatty, but you have to expect that with ribs since it’s impossible to find them trimmed of all fat (although I’ve had some that were almost lean). Two sides come with the big plates. On one visit I had slaw and sweet potato chips, to mixed reviews. The chips were greasy and had little flavor, even though it’s possible to sprinkle a whole lot of interest onto a potato chip. Same for the slaw, which was made of red cabbage and sliced apples but had no defining flavor, as well as being hard to categorize as either a vinegar or a creamy slaw.
On a second visit, the Green Bean and Tomato Salad was very good, filled with fresh and crisp beans as well as sugar-sweet tomatoes. The Garlic and Herb Fries ($4) were also good.
A Smoked Troutdale Trout sandwich ($10) was excellent. It came on thick Texas toast, nicely oiled, and with a flavorful onion confit that added another layer of taste: sweet and savory at the same time. The fish itself was deliciously smoky—just enough flavor, but not so strong as to overpower the fish. Sandwiches come with one side.
Desserts are pretty much pie ($5) or ice cream ($4). Our apple pie had a soggy top crust and not a whole lot of flavor besides the apple itself. The Pecan Pie, however, was better: sweet and sticky, like it should be.
The decor befits a barbecue joint, with rough-wood touches, exposed clear lightbulbs, colorful walls and festive twinkle lights strung along the ceiling. I do think they should put up some kind of barrier to the exposed broom closet, bathroom area and kitchen door—it’s always nicer to hide those. In general, I’d give two-thumbs-up to the quality and quantity of barbecue here and a ‘needs improvement’ to some of the sides.
[amuse bouche]
THE SCENE | Urban barbecue restaurant
THE CHEF | Hayley Riley
THE PRICES | $5 to $10 starters; $8 to $10 sandwiches; $10 to $23 plates
THE FA
VORITES | Brisket, Pulled Chicken, Pulled Pork, Smoked Wings, Smoked Troutdale Trout Sandwich, Green Bean and Tomato Salad
[chef chat] >> hayley riley
PEDIGREE | 11 years in the industry
FAVORITE INGREDIENT | Salt
FAVORITE RESTAURANT | Elaia
FAVORITE COOKBOOK | Food Lover’s Companion
MOST MEMORABLE DINING EXPERIENCE | Grant Achatz’s Next restaurant in Chicago. The presentation was lovely and the waitstaff, impeccable.
GUILTY PLEASURE FOOD | Pizza
6525 delmar blvd. | 314.772.0200
