As you pull up to the shopping center at the southeast corner of Manchester and Clarkson roads, its busy commercial character doesn’t lend itself to a quiet, home-style meal. Yet that is just what Monty’s American Grill offers. Launched in early 2015 by the same two St. Louisans who opened Monty’s Sandwich Company downtown a few years back, this Monty’s has a larger menu, with most offerings house-made from scratch.
The ambience inside is that of a modern and modest sports bar, while a large side patio offers an outdoor option under a covering with ceiling fans. A starter of Southwest Crab Cakes ($12) certainly got our attention when two large, well-fried patties appeared filled with plenty of good-quality crab and topped with chipotle aioli. These were a cut above most served around town, especially at this price. The House Chili, $4 for a ‘cup’ that I questioned twice to see if it was actually a bowl, is excellent. It has just the right amount of bite, plenty of chili flavor and salt, and is meaty with plenty of beans.
Our Monty Burger ($11) was similarly tasty and satisfying: the half-pound patty is a blend of brisket and chuck on a nice, fresh bun and comes with choice of hand-cut fries, chips or coleslaw. Also included were lettuce, tomato, onion and nice, long sandwich pickles; melted American cheese topped the burger. The fries were really good, very crunchy. A side of slaw ($3) contained sunflower seeds, an odd touch, and it needed more dressing and seasoning.
Another surprise hit was the Shrimp Po’Boy Wrap ($10), since I always expect wraps to be dry and dull. This one had a fresh wheat tortilla and was filled with jumbo steamed shrimp, shredded lettuce, cheddar, bell pepper, buttermilk-fried onions and sweet chili sauce. The crisp onions and tangy-sweet sauce really worked well with the shrimp and greens.
Sandwiches rule here, so do not pass them up. The America’s Club ($10.50) is a delicious feast between sliced bread. Layered with smoked turkey breast, thick-cut bacon, cheddar, lettuce and tomato, two pieces of good-quality white bread (and one in the middle), are toasted and spread with mayo. The result is totally satisfying, especially the bacon, which is very meaty and slightly sweet. Sandwiches come with a pickle spear (although ours were forgotten!) and choice of fries or slaw. The fries are stellar, crisp and pleasantly oily.
Another sandwich, the Southwest BLT ($14), was similarly scrumptious with a massive crab cake mashed inside a buttery brioche-type bun. First, the crab cake was lump meat, always a big plus. And the Southwest elements did not overwhelm, also a plus when you consider how delicate crabmeat is and that you never want to obscure its flavor. It was made with some black beans, corn and poblanos, and the bun was spread with chipotle aioli. The same thick bacon was also included, as well as lettuce and tomato.
For dessert, a slice (more like a slab) of Carnegie Deli cheesecake ($8) was creamy and heavenly. It came with a light dose of blueberry sauce, also good. I can’t, however, recommend the Fried PB&J Ice Cream Sundae ($6); it had nondescript ice cream, whipped ‘topping,’ a couple of sticky sauces and wedges of grilled peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Pleasant West County sandwich-sports bar
the prices | $11-$13 burgers, $10-$12 sandwiches
the chef/owners | Joel Williams and Steve May
the favorites | House Chili, Monty Burger, Shrimp Po’Boy Wrap, Southwest Crab Cakes
[chef chat] » co-owner joel williams
why ellisville? | My partner Steve and I both live out here. We tried the concept in St. Louis city and it worked, so we decided to come back home.
what is your interest in sandwiches? | We’re are both big on barbecue and traditional smoked meats, so we combined the two. It’s more like an East Coast deli.
why all-natural? | We wanted to set ourselves apart.
favorite menu item? | Lobster mac and cheese
15850 manchester road | 636.220.3333
Photos: Bill Barrett
