Ever wonder how the little black dress came into existence? Well, put on your favorite LBD and head over to see the much-anticipated exhibit, Little Black Dress: from Mourning to Night, at the Missouri History Museum. Opening April 2, it display s more than 60 dresses from the museum’s world-renowned textile collection. Did you know that prior to the 20th century, black dresses were worn only for mourning? And that French designer Coco Chanel revolutionized the LBD when she introduced it in her fashion collection in the 1920s? The History Museum exhibit is free and runs through Sept. 5.
1895: Second Day Wedding Dress, Designer Unknown
This historic black dress was worn by Ettie Lenora Ansell McCollester the day after her wedding to attend events and celebrations. Ettie and her husband George lived in California, Missouri. The tightly cinched waist and large puffy sleeves, known as ‘leg o’mutton sleeves,’ were popular in the 1890s.
1918: Silk Evening Dress with Tulle and Lace Overlay
During the war years, women joined the workforce, precipitating a change in their clothing. The corset became less important, and new silhouettes were designed with a higher waist and a more practical bustline. This dress reflects the new, freer look with a looser bodice and a hem above the ankle.
1928: Chanel Lace Evening Dress with Crepe de Chine Underdress
A Chanel dress reflects the modernization of the LBD for special occasions. Coco Chanel helped popularize shoestring shoulder straps. Notice the hem, a precursor to today’s trend of high to low. The dress was purchased by St. Louisan Aaron Rauh of Rice-Stix Dry Goods Company for his wife, Elsie.
1937: Short-Sleeve Rayon Crepe Dress with Beaded Collar and Cuffs
As the flapper era ended by 1930, styles shifted to a look with more gravitas. Less brassy and more feminine, the trend included a defined waist and bustline, some arm coverage and longer hems. This dress was worn by Claire Marie Bacon Hagee of St. Louis.
1938: ‘Doris Dodson’ Rayon Dress with Net Yoke and Velvet Trim
St. Louisan Irving Sorger recognized the need for junior wear and pioneered the trend in junior styles and sizing (5, 7, 9, etc.). Doris Dodson was one of the labels created by Forest City Manufacturing, located downtown on Washington Avenue. This rayon dress is a junior style, with a slightly higher chest, shorter waist and smaller waistline.
ellen’s pick of the month ››
What bag should you pair with the LBD? A smart and sophisticated clutch. This Neiman Marcus exclusive Judith Leiber minaudiere is a great color! Cobalt blue looks chic with black. neimanmarcus.com
Ellen Soule is a fashion and public relations consultant and the past regional director for Fashion Group International, St. Louis region.
