Skin care can be an enigma. How much sun is too much sun? What should we look for in our skin cream—glycolic acid or retinol? Do we really need to drink 64 ounces of water a day? One thing’s for sure: as the largest organ of the body, skin deserves plenty of TLC. Read what the experts recommend.
[the right stuff]
With thousands of products on the market—and probably a dozen or more in your medicine cabinet— finding the right ones for you, without breaking the bank, can be challenging. Here’s a rundown of the most popular products and ingredients, as well as an easy step-by-step skin care routine.
cleanse, correct, protect. repeat!
Skin care needs to be a daily event, and there’s no way you’re going to continue a regimen that’s too difficult or complex, says Dr. Amy Miller, of St. Louis Skin Solutions. “Three basic steps are all most people need. The catchphrase is cleanse, correct, protect. A morning routine of cleanser, antioxidant and sunscreen hits all three steps in just a few minutes. In the evening, cleanse again, use an anti-aging component such as a retinol, and then moisturize. Easy!”
When choosing products, the first rule is to match them to your needs at the time. “Those can change dramatically depending on hormonal changes, season and aging. In general, hyaluronic acid and ceramides are good to look for, but be aware that what works today may not be right forever. That said, dry skin generally benefits from hyaluronic acid and ceramides, acne-prone skin responds well to salicylic acid or retinols, and signs of aging may be slowed or smoothed with peptides, glycolic acid and retinols,” Miller says. “Most people benefit from antioxidants, and growth factors derived from plant stem cells are a newer addition that can be beneficial for many skin types.”
Good skin care products do not have to cost a fortune, either, according to Miller. Beneficial ingredients can be found in inexpensive creams and serums, but carrier ingredients, stabilizers and manufacturing procedures can affect how your skin reacts to the product.
Allie Israelson, a senior esthetician and spa manager at Nayak Plastic Surgery and Avani Day Spa, says it may be worth splurging on medical-grade products. “You don’t need 12 different skin care products; just a few good core ones and your once-a-month treatments will do the trick,” she says.
exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate
Exfoliating removes the dead outer layer of your skin to improve its texture and stimulate new skin growth,” Israelson says. But don’t over-exfoliate—do it two to three times per week. Alpha-hydroxy acids provide an effective way to loosen the outer layer of skin and are mild enough for almost anyone. Israelson also likes the Clarisonic® brush, used daily for a deeper cleaning and exfoliation. For at-home use, Miller recommends glycolic cleansers and enzyme masks. She says avoid at-home microderm abrasion and chemical peels. “These are definitely not recommended,” she advises. “Both carry the risk of serious injury and should be left to the professionals.” Miller also recommends avoiding walnut and apricot exfoliators in favor of a round, synthetic bead. “Natural or irregular grit can create microtears in the skin.”
monthly
“Facials provide a deeper exfoliation and cleanse than is possible at home, and improve the skin’s texture and overall tone. Another benefit is that you will get better results from your regular skin care products too, because they’ll be able to penetrate deeper,” Israelson says. Depending on the provider and package chosen,
[suncreen 101]
Are you ready to protect your skin against skin cancer and premature aging? Take the guesswork out of choosing a sunscreen with the following expert tips.
First, if you still have last year’s sunscreens, it’s probably time to replace them. “Most sunscreens have an expiration date printed on the bottle, and using an expired sunscreen may mean the product is not as effective,” says Dr. Kara Blackwell, a W.U. dermatologist.
chemical v. physical
According to Dr. Joseph Muccini, a dermatologist at MidAmerica Skin Health & Vitality Center, chemical sunscreens allow the sun into the skin, but make it less harmful. Physical sunscreens, which include titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, are most often referred to as ‘sunblocks.’ These products do not allow the sun to get into the skin and have the advantage of working immediately, unlike chemical sunscreens, which require 20 minutes to become effective. “In addition, the physical sunscreens are now micronized in premium products, so they no longer make you look like the white-nosed lifeguards of the 1980s,” Muccini says.
spray-on v. lotion
Spray-on, lotion and other forms of sunscreen all can be effective, as long as they’re applied correctly, according to Blackwell. “It’s important to make sure you’re applying enough—about 1 ounce is needed to cover the exposed areas of your body,” she says. As for concerns about the chemicals used in sunscreens, Blackwell says all the chemicals have been studied by the FDA and deemed safe. “The most current scientific data does not show that the ingredients in sunscreen are associated with hormonal issues, cancer or any other health problems in humans. There is evidence that sunscreens can prevent skin cancer.”
what’s in a number?
One of the most common misconceptions about sunscreen is that anything over an SPF of 30 is a waste. That’s simply not true, according to Muccini. In fact, he says SPF 30 should be thought of as the minimum and recommends that most people use at least an SPF 50. “The nuance of this issue is that some people get a false sense of security if they think they have a high-SPF sunscreen. Studies have shown that people use too little sunscreen in the first place and don’t reapply as often as they need to.”
water-resistant v. waterproof
There’s also an important difference between ‘water-resistant’ and ‘waterproof.’ “The FDA considers a product ‘water-resistant’ if it maintains its SPF level after 40 minutes of water exposure. A product is considered ‘waterproof’ if it maintains its SPF level following 80 minutes of exposure to water,” Muccini says.
uvb v. uva
Next, make sure your sunscreen protects against both UVB and UVA rays. “SPF rating systems are only an indicator for UVB protection. Higher SPF numbers do not necessarily guarantee better UVA protection,” Muccini says. “The word ‘broadband’ or ‘broadspectrum’ is often the way somebody knows there is UVA protection. Also, higher SPF sunscreens usually contain a more reliably included UVA protection component.”
just say yes!
Of course, summer is not the only time you need to think about sun protection. “UVA rays, which can cause photoaging and skin cancer, can penetrate car and office windows,” Blackwell says. If the threat of skin cancer is not motivation enough, Blackwell reminds us that sunscreen has other benefits. “It also prevents signs of aging caused by sun exposure, like brown spots, uneven pigmentation, enlarged pores, wrinkling and sagging skin.”
[the sunscreen 7]
2014 recommendation from Consumer Reports
+ Banana Boat’s Ultra Defense Max Skin Protect SPF 110 spray = $1.75 an ounce.
+ BullFrog Water Armor Sport InstaCool SPF 50+ spray = $1.67 an ounce.
+ Coppertone Water Babies SPF 50 = $1.38 an ounce.
+ Neutrogena Ultimate Sport SPF 70+ lotion = $2.75 an ounce.
+ Target’s Up & Up Spray Sport SPF 50 spray = 0.80 an ounce.
+ Walgreens’ Well Sport SPF 50 spray = $1.58 an ounce
+ Walmart’s Equate Ultra Protection SPF 50 = $0.56 an ounce.
Only BullFrog Water Armor Sport InstaCool lived up to its SPF claim after being in water.
[beauty foods]
“You can build better skin from the inside out,” says Diane Friedman, a registered dietitian nutritionist with Evolution Fitness. “A healthy diet plentiful in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and healthy sources of protein and fat can add suppleness and protect against sun damage, redness, wrinkles and dryness.”
antioxidants
According to the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, antioxidants, such as vitamins C and E and carotenoids (like beta-carotene, lycopene and lutein) help protect healthy cells and reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease and certain cancers. “Foods high in antioxidants help protect skin cells from free radical damage, which breaks down collagen and results in fine lines,” Friedman says. “Sun, smoking, pollution, alcohol and stress can all cause free radical formation.”
High-antioxidant foods include: berries, dried beans, tomatoes, artichokes, prunes, pomegranate, plums and nuts. Interestingly, there’s evidence that Montmorency cherries help repair sunburned skin, and green tea (also high in antioxidants) improves skin elasticity and moisture, according to Friedman. While it’s generally best to get your vitamins from food, Semchyshyn says it can be difficult to increase antioxidant levels in skin through diet or supplements. “I recommend topical antioxidants for the skin that contain phloretin, ferulic acid and vitamins C and E. Topical vitamin A derivatives such as retinol (or prescription tretinoin) have proven anti-aging effects on skin.”
the healthy fats
Foods high in essential fatty acids, like fish, seeds and nuts, can reduce acne and wrinkles, according to Semchyshyn. “They have anti-inflammatory effects; inflammation can cause acne and aging changes in the skin,” she explains. Flax seed and salmon are particularly high in omega-3 fatty acids, which prevent dry, dull skin. Avocado is high in monounsaturated fats, vitamins A and C, and fiber to enhance your complexion. Researchers also are studying omega-3 fatty acids, along with probiotics and tea, for possible beneficial effects on eczema, Friedman adds.
drink up!
Good hydration is important to keep skin looking its best. “Beverages containing caffeine and/or alcohol can contribute to dehydration. Plain water is best for hydrating and getting nutrients to our cells and helping to flush out toxins,” Semchyshyn says. But more is not better. “If you have dry skin and are well-hydrated, you don’t need extra water, you need a good moisturizer. A good rule of thumb is eight 8-ounce glasses of fluids a day,” she says.
the truth about chocolate
For years, our moms have warned that eating chocolate and greasy chips would cause acne. And guess what? There’s good evidence now that refined carbohydrates can increase the chances of developing acne and wrinkles. “It’s best to avoid white bread, pasta, sugary soft drinks, potatoes, sweets and processed foods. The hormones in dairy also can cause flare-ups in people with acne-prone skin.” Semchyshyn says. “As for chocolate, that is more individual. While no study has shown that it causes acne, I have patients who know they break out after eating chocolate or certain foods.” There is one exception. “Dark chocolate, at least 70 percent cocoa, is actually good for the skin,” Friedman says.
[try this]
The only supplement SLU dermatologist Dr. Natalie Semchyshyn recommends to prevent sun damage is polypodium leucotomas extract (commercially, Heliocare or BhyzoCare PLE). There is scientific data that shows this powerful antioxidant, derived from a South American fern, is effective. The effects are strongest an hour after ingesting, so take it prior to outdoor activities in conjunction with topical sunscreen.
[at-a-glance]
The skin, our largest organ, deserves plenty of tlc.
- Eating a healthy diet fueled with antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and healthy proteins and fats can benefit skin. It also protects against sun damage, redness, wrinkles and dryness.
- The best skin care regimen is as simple as ‘cleanse, correct, protect.’ Monthly treatments like facials and microderm abrasion can improve the texture and tone of skin.
- The SPF rating on sunscreen applies only to its UVB protection. To ensure UVA protection as well, look for words like ‘broadband’ or ‘broad spectrum.’
- Sunscreen is only as good as its application. It takes about 1 ounce to cover the exposed areas of your body. Sunscreen also needs to be reapplied, at minimum, every two hours (more often if you’re swimming or sweating excessively).
By Sara Savat
