It is rare to eat at a restaurant where everything that comes out of the kitchen is superior. Yet that was was the case recently at The Grill at The Ritz-Carlton. Executive chef Damien Faure (a native Frenchman) launched a new menu a couple of months ago, one described as “an urban infusion: seasonal elements, simply crafted, perfectly grilled.” And they really mean ‘infusion,’ since the servers go to great pains to introduce a half-dozen bottles of olive oil infused with elements like black garlic/herb, lemon verbena avocado, spring onion chipotle, etc. These can be used on everything from bread to the grilled entrees, all of which are “simply crafted” to better pair with the rich oils.
I should add that if you did absolutely nothing to the food, it would still be wonderful. A starter of Prince Edward Island Mussels ($10) was a far cry from the typical wine-steamed mussel dish. Instead the broth was creamy and very buttery, fragrant with Eastern flavors like lemon grass, kaffir lime and peppery basil. Served with well-oiled naan (Indian flatbread), the sauce is too tempting not to soak up every last bit.
The Tuscan Kale & Hearts of Palm salad ($15), big enough to split, is greatly understated by its modest name. This is an enticing mix of premium ingredients that all share the stage, not a pile of kale dotted with a few goodies. Toasted marcona almonds, sliced hearts of palm, juicy strawberries, fresh orange segments, creamy goat cheese and tender baby lettuce leaves share the spotlight with the kale, which is itself tender. The dressing is sweet and citrusy.
The 12-ounce New York Strip ($36) was excellent on all counts: juicy, flavorful, well-trimmed, lightly charred and “perfectly grilled,” as promised in the
menu’s tagline. The accompanying béarnaise sauce, too, impressed me, as it was not dominated by the tarragon as so many are. The infusions—especially the black truffle and blackened garlic varieties—showed off their merits when used as dipping sauces for the meat. I guess that’s why the menu sticks to “simply crafted” foods—those work best with the oils. Entrées come with a choice of sides, which in my case was Smoked Gouda Mash, whipped Yukon Gold potatoes flavored judiciously with gouda cheese.
The Lemon Fennel Glazed Grouper stands out as one of the finest fish dishes I’ve had in St. Louis. It came with a light, crusty exterior and sweet fish flavor. The lemon fennel glaze was barely detectable, a plus with this delicate fish. Our chosen side, Roasted Cauliflower, is another dish that was too modestly described. The tricolored crucifer—purple, white and green—liberally coated with black truffle oil—was positively orgasmic. While hotel restaurants aren’t top of mind for most St. Louisans, this one deserves to be. It was pretty near perfect—and that goes for the service, as well.
[amuse bouche ]
THE SCENE | Clubby, elegant hotel restaurant with dark woods and low lighting
THE CHEF | Damien Faure
THE PRICES | $7 to $10 starters, $15 and $16 flatbreads, $21 to $39 entrees
THE FAVORITES | PEI Mussels, Tuscan Kale & Hearts of Palm salad, Lemon Fennel Glazed Grouper, New York Strip, Prosciutto & Arugula Flatbread, Blackened Steak & Blue Cheese Flatbread, Morgan Street Brewery Beer Can ½ Chicken, Seasonal Sorbets
[chef chat] >> damien faure
PEDIGREE | Jeanne D’Arc Aulnoye Aymeries (France)
FAVORITE INGREDIENT | Scallops
FAVORITE RESTAURANT | Sidney Street Cafe or Elaia
FAVORITE COOKBOOK | Larousse Gastronomique
MOST MEMORABLE DINING EXPERIENCE | At Michel Troisgros’ restaurant in Roanne; everything was perfect.
GUILTY PLEASURE | Cured meats and cheese
100 carondelet ave. | 314.863.6300
Photos: Bill Barrett
