The long-awaited opening of a new restaurant in the old Majestic spot has finally come to fruition. The result: a smart-looking barbecue place run by the Wild Flower folks. The menu is small—a handful of smoky plates and sandwiches—and the spirits menu rather large. Inside, the space is all exposed brick and beautiful dark-wood floors, with a large bar dominating the entrance area and a quieter dining room adjoining. It’s on a CWE corner, so it’s prime people-watching territory outside.
You have to love a place that has five starters under $6. Nibble to your heart’s content, but save room for some ribs. The Pickled Veggies ($3) are house-cured and a real treat with cauliflower and broccoli florets, sliced carrots and zucchini, and a dilled pickle wedge I wanted to clone—multiple times. The flavor of all was similar: vinegary and mouth-puckering. Order some cornbread to go with it ($5).
Candied Bacon ($5) is definitely a must-try, but it won’t be for everyone. It’s like having dessert before dinner, that’s how much sugar coats these meaty rashers! You can actually see the turbinado sugar granules all over, even though they’ve been caramelized during cooking. The bacon is thick-cut and meaty.
The dinners are either sandwiches or plates; the former come with one side, the other with two. And meats are locally sourced as much as possible, particularly the pork. A half-slab of Pork Ribs ($18) came with a heavy rub, the meat well-darkened and the fat pretty much cooked off. On the table are two sauces, Carolina and St. Louis-style, although you can eat these dry and they’d be just as good. The Carolina sauce is yellow and citrus-y; the St. Louisstyle is smoky and sweet.
Pulled Pork ($13) is good, served piled on a single piece of Texas toast. The meat was smoky, with good flavor, and for the most part, lean. A side of Mac N Chz was stellar, very cheesy and thick.
Try all the sides, as they are a way for the ’cue chef to show his stuff. The Bourbon Baked Beans were a standout, saucy and sweet with the distinctive flavor of bourbon, which is mostly made from corn. ‘Old Glory’ Slaw also is really good, very creamy and dotted with red onion and blueberries. (Yes, I said blueberries—dried ones). The Southern Corn Bread is good, but on the dry side; you definitely need to slather it with the accompanying honey butter. Jeffry’s Potato Salad is irreproachable as the classic mayo-style cold potatoes. An order of Irish Organic Salmon ($28), the most expensive menu item, was very good: clean-tasting and mild, if a little bland.
Don’t pass on dessert, as there are several options. Our Bread Pudding was good, made with Texas toast and lots of butter and sugar. But the Lemon Cake was the real star, with its tart-sweet icing and lemon curd filling.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Lively CWE bar and barbecue spot
the chef | Phil Czarnec
the prices | $3 to $11 starters, $9 to $28 dinner
the favorites | St. Louis Cut Pork Ribs, Pickled Veggies, Bourbon Baked Beans, Jeffry’s Potato Salad, ‘Old Glory’ Slaw, Lemon Cake
[chef chat] » phil czarnec
pedigree | I’ve worked with classically trained chefs for 25 years.
favorite ingredient | Whiskey
favorite restaurant | The Tenderloin Room at The Chase Park Plaza
favorite cookbook | Anything by Thomas Keller
most memorable dining experience | A Fourth of July 24-hour pig roast with 100 friends
guilty pleasure food | Bordelaise
4900 laclede ave. | 314.833.6666
Photos: Bill Barrett
