Twenty-five years is a long time in the restaurant business, especially in Clayton, where trendy spots come and go. But when you find a winning formula—exceptional food, personal service, large portions and fair prices—it’s possible to turn a modest little place into one of the most popular spots in town. That is exactly what Tony Pietoso did ages ago, when he parlayed his Cafe Napoli—then in a basement spot that housed a Danish restaurant—into his current place at the corner of Bemiston and Forsyth.
He deserves the success. He (or his son) is always present to greet guests, and they stop by the tables to ensure everyone feels the love. Then there’s the food, which in all these years I have not known to diminish in quality one iota. If you want top-notch traditional southern Italian cooking, this is your spot. It’s hard to beat his veal parm or chicken piccata. And when you’re talking $19 for just about any chicken dish, well, that’s pretty exciting. That’s not to say the kitchen is staid; there are small innovations. For example, my fish special came on white carrot puree with apple cider gastrique. A starter of Shrimp de Jonghe ($12) illustrates what you come here for. Three massive shrimp, cooked firm and delicious, come in an amazing, deep-red sauce tinged with a bit of zesty heat. They are meaty, and the plentiful sauce comes in handy for the (increasingly rare) free bread basket served here.
An order of Rigatoni Sorrentina ($18) has a creamy tomato sauce laden with arugula and buffalo mozzarella, which partially melts into the piping hot pasta. The peppery arugula was pleasantly tempered by the cheese, and, of course, the pasta was perfectly al dente.
The Veal Parmigiana ($24) captures the essence of Italy: olive oil-crisped breadcrumbs, veal scallopini, creamy full-fat mozzarella and complexly layered tomato sauce. Every bite offered crunchy, creamy bliss you wish would never end. And it comes with a choice of pasta, veggie or potato side. This dish is hard to beat, but somehow our other entree did it. A special of Triggerfish, a mild whitefish from Florida, had a very appealing presentation, with the fish fillets cut into pieces, each pan-fried in what tasted like a full stick of butter. (There’s no better pairing than fish and butter.) They were beautifully browned and flavorful, tender and sweet, and sat on a milky puree of white carrots flavored with apple cider coulis.
As for dessert … so many good options, so little stomach space left. I settled on the Tartufo, a light chocolate gelato laced with amaretto liqueur and coated in a thin, hard chocolate shell. Yes, it was as good as it sounds.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Elegant Italian ristorante
the chef | Chip Bates
the prices | $8 to $14 starters, $16 to $27 pastas, $19 to $47 entrees
the favorites | Veal Parmesan, Triggerfish, Tartufo, Shrimp de Jonghe, Rigatoni Sorrentino
[chef chat] » owner tony pietoso
secrets to your long success? Service, service and more service
describe your food. Authentic Italian
favorite dish on the menu? Veal chop
any planned additions/changes in food, service or decor? I wouldn’t change a thing.
7754 forsyth blvd. | 314.863.5731
Photos: Bill Barrett
