This place is impressive. Set on the street level of Clayton’s Centene Plaza, it is surrounded by windows, with an interior of sleek chrome and a hip, contemporary-urban vibe. A roaring glass fireplace separates two of the eating areas, and a long bar does the same in the main part of the dining room.
The food is gourmet Mexican, not the sauce-y and cheesy dishes we think of as cantina or street fare. Like a starter of Ahi Tuna Tacos ($9.79) with sushi-grade raw fish piled into three crisp taco shells (house-made) with a bit of sweet jicama slaw. A drizzle of creamy chipotle aioli and a small mound of chunky guacamole sit at the lip of each taco in a deliberate, sophisticated use of flavors and textures. The jicama provides a burst of sweet as you bite into the crunchy shell and soft, almost creamy fish. Excellent in every way.
The kitchen allows you to mix and match within categories, so for our three-taco platter, we sampled the shredded beef, the mahi mahi and the portobello mushroom tacos. These come in soft cornmeal shells, and unlike at more traditional Mexican places, they are not simply the same taco only with a change of filling. Each is a distinct dish, matched with its own accompaniments and sauce. The beef, slow-cooked shredded brisket, was not in sauce, but rather dry shreds and with very good flavor and a hint of cilantro.
The fish taco is made with mahi mahi, which sits atop marinated vegetables and queso fresco, with a drizzle of creamy chipotle aioli. The most unusual of the bunch was the Taco de Hongos, or portabello mushroom taco, as it came generously drizzled with sweet, sticky balsamic glaze—not a flavor you associate with Mexican cuisine.
But it worked well, except for the mess and the difficulty of eating a large mushroom inside a small taco shell (please cut into smaller pieces!). Also in there were bits of creamy goat cheese, roasted red pepper and queso fresco. Delicious (and unusual) was the Enchiladas de Avocado ($12.29), a soft, flavorful corn tube stuffed with creamy avocado and piquant artichoke hearts. Tomatillo sauce provided the bite, and a bed of steamed spinach added an earthy element. One thing I must note is that the three enchiladas were on the small side, as was pretty much everything else at Cantina Laredo.
The Chicken Fajitas platter ($16.79) was a little bigger, but not as inspired as the other dishes. The chicken was grilled and came with sauteed onions and peppers, as well as house-made tortillas. Tiny portions of beans and rice were on the side.
Ask to see the dessert tray, as no menu description can do justice to the attractive offerings. We chose the Flan ($6.29), which was super-thick and tasty and did not have the telltale condensed milk taste of many flans. It sat in a light pool of thin caramel sauce laced with Cointreau.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Sleek, elegant, contemporary restaurant
the chef | Sean Scott
the prices | $7.50 to $15
the favorites | Chilean Sea Bass, Ahi Tuna crisp tacos, soft tacos De Barbacoa, Tacos de Hongos, Flan, Enchiladas de Avocado
[chef chat] » sean scott
favorite ingredient | Pork
favorite st. louis restaurant | Quincy Street Bistro
favorite cookbook | The French Laundry
most memorable dining experience | Ad Hoc in Napa Valley; it was simply amazing. guilty pleasure food Tamales
7710 forsyth blvd. | 314.725.2447
