Well, Mike Randolph is at it again. He just opened a brand, new spot in the Loop, Publico. It’s uber-gourmet Mexican food that calls to mind his short experiment with deconstructed dishes at one of his former nighttime incarnations, Little Country Gentlemen. Lamb hearts are on this menu, not to mention baby octopus, sweetbreads and fiddlehead ferns. Experimentation appears to be his passion.
The place is appealing, with a long bar on one side of the narrow space and booths lining the other side. In an open area near the back is where the magic happens, in an oak-burning hearth with a spit. A starter of Guacamole Arepas ($11.50) is not the usual presentation. The avocado mixture sits atop two arepas, fluffy corn and egg pancakes, with queso crumbled on top and salsa—green and red—alongside. Every element is distinct, special and full of flavor.
Do not miss the Octopus small plate ($11), even if you think you don’t like octopus. Tender, tiny specimens with a crunchy finish (but not deep-fry) sit in two amazing sauces, one creamy and green, the other tangy and brown. Also tasty is the Pinto Beans starter ($4.50), a small bowl of the traditional beans flavored with nontraditional fat drippings: lamb.
As you can see, prices are all over the map, which brings me to a diner alert: what you order will greatly impact how you feel about your meal. While all the food we tried was amazing in flavor and creativity, some dishes were well-priced for the serving size, others were not. Spot Prawns ($14) came in a wonderful sweet and creamy sauce with mango and jalapeno flavors, yet the two head-on specimens barely whet the appetite. Same for the Grilled Fiddleheads ($9), about four of the curly delicacies sitting around a small mound of plump barley with lime and cilantro. If you order the Hangar Steak ($16), on the other hand, you get two thick slabs of beef dabbed with a zesty lime & anchovy butter.
And the tacos, two for $6.50, no matter the variety you choose, are satisfying and deliriously delicious. Do not miss the Pescado Blanco taco, with its delicate white fish ever so lightly smokey and jalapeno cream cheese, along with crispy shallots and cilantro. Hongos taco, a vegetarian offering with oyster mushrooms, cucumber, radish, huitlacoche and goat cheese, is also good. For more adventurous palates, try Hominy Succotash ($7.50), a hot potpourri of favas, earthy hominy, grape tomatoes, cilantro and poblano chile. Or Baked Oysters ($8), two shells topped with a spicy, savory blend of chorizo, corn kernels, bread crumbs and meaty oysters.
A dessert of MO Rice Pudding ($13) was deliciously inventive as a very creamy (and large) bowlful of rice pudding flavored with lime juice, mango puree and—wait for it—dry shavings of foie gras. The latter added a salty element that was the finishing touch, but the star here was the pudding—rich, sweet, tart and slightly crunchy.
[amuse bouche]
the scene | Hip, bustling, urban restaurant with unique Mexican cuisine
the chef | Mike Randolph
the prices | $4.50 – $11 small plates, $6.50 tacos, $13-$16 big plates
the favorites | Octopus small plate, Guacamole arepas, Pescado Blanco taco, Spot Prawns, Missouri Rice Pudding
[chef chat] » mike randolph
What got you interested in Mexican food? | I have always been interested in the bold flavors and freshness.
How is this spot different from your former Mexican restaurant, Medianoche? | This is a more evolved version that was built from the ground up.
Favorite menu item? | The tartare.
Favorite Mexican ingredient? | Lime
6679 delmar blvd. | 314.833.5780
Photos: Bill Barrett
