Review: Thai Table
first impression | This is a modest little spot in Maplewood with authentic (and often unfamiliar) Thai food. I really liked the array of unusual dishes—like Pad Kra Pow, ground chicken in a spicy basil sauce. Some might have too much heat for the Western palate, or too much lemon, cilantro or basil. Be sure to state ‘mild’ if that’s what you like. As for ambience, several of the tables are grouped near the kitchen entrance, which can feel like you’re eating in a carryout restaurant.
» a nom jeep: $4.95; These house-made pork and chicken dumplings were my favorite. The doughy pockets hit all of the savory bases with their ground meats, shiitakes and crisp-fried garlic topping. Each bite was chewy, spicy, crispy and delicious.
» somtum: $6.95; The distinct Thai specialty green papaya was served as long shavings of crunchy fruit topped with ground peanuts. They had the texture of water chestnuts and a slightly tangy flavor from being tossed with lime and tamarind (acidic and sweet). A stack of iceberg lettuce leaves was for wrapping the papaya into ‘sandwiches.’
» massaman beef: $13.95; I recommend trying entrees from the ‘specialties’ section, like this one, because they are different. This dish had tender, slow-cooked stew meat swimming in massaman curry with coconut milk, potato chunks, sliced onions and peanuts. The flavors were subtle: creamy coconut, aromatic curry and the faintest hint of spice.
» pad kra pow: $11.95; A stellar dish of stir-fried ground chicken mixed with basil leaves and bell peppers, it had a mild bite and came with white rice topped with a fried egg—all around delicious.
» pad med ma maung: $14.95; A stellar dish of stir-fried ground chicken mixed with basil leaves and bell peppers, it had a mild bite and came with white rice topped with a fried egg—all around delicious.
» bangkok noodle: $14.95; A spicy plateful of flat rice noodles tossed with seafood and a ‘special’ chef’s chili paste for heat. The mix of shrimp, mussels and bean sprouts initially tastes sweet, but after it goes down, the heat kicks in. I found this one a little too oily.
» pad see ew: $11.95; This classic noodle dish avoids spice altogether. It is mostly sweet, slathered in dark soy with firm broccoli florets, stirred egg bits and oil (again, too much).
» pot stickers: $4.95; They came stuffed with chicken and are not sticky at all, but deep-fried.
wash it down
Bar service was not available when we visited, but diners could bring their own bottles.
It’s not the most relaxing setting since carryout orders regularly move through the dining area, but the food here is worth the visit. Many items are new and interesting. Plus, the amount (and quality) of food you get for the price is impressive.
7403 Manchester Road | 314.449.6919
the dish | Ghang Ped Bhed Yang: red curry with roasted duck and steamed rice